BETA PHOTO: The top of the Aretes from the campsites across th...
Description
The Trinity Aretes are a steep, high quality limestone sport climbing area located above the Trinity River. The rock is of excellent quality with routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.14a. The cliffs are generally north facing and quite cold during the winter. Summer and Fall are the best times to climb. While some routes are only 35 feet, most are 100 feet or longer, and up to 250, so a 70 meter rope is highly recommended. Some locals use 100 meter ropes for ease of lowering on the longer lines. After following rumors of a big limestone crag, Paul Humphrey finally drove the right dirt road and found one of the highest quality limestone crags on the west coast. Since 1996 route development has been spearheaded by Eric Chemello and Humphrey and there are now over 50 routes.
Some routes do require gear so check your line before launching. A helmet is highly recommended as there is some loose rock above and around the climbs.
Getting There
The "Aretes" are great for their easy access. From the town of Burnt Ranch on Highway 299, Take Underwood Mountain road uphill (south) for 3.5 miles. Turn right onto forest service road 5N40. Follow this road for about 2 miles and the cliffs will be on your left. Dispersed camping is found across the road and more secluded spots are nearby. Please travel well away from the camp to relieve yourself. The Aretes are currently not "trashed" please pack out all butts, bottle caps and tape. Also, please pay attention to the local fire restrictions, one careless incident could blow it for everyone.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trinity Aretes:
Follow the golden water streak up the center of the Shooting Gallery. A steep start leads to a reachy crux at the third bolt. The rest of the climb is pump-management and route finding, there's always a jug to be found......[more]Browse More Classics in CA
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Jul 24, 2007
I've heard of this area, and I'd love to check it out in the Fall.
What is the driving time from the Crescent City area? I'm coming from Portland, and I'm having a hard time figuring out if it's better to go through the Redwoods area on the coast and cut over, or to just come straight down I-5 and then go West at Redding. What would you recommend?
By Rick Shull Administrator From: Arcata, CA and Dyer,NV Jul 24, 2007
Peter- Driving time to the Aretes is about 2.5-3 hrs from Crescent City or about 2 from Redding. I think cutting across to Crescent City is probably a little faster than coming from Redding. The other way is to drop down from Yreka to Callahan and down Rte. 3 to Weaverville and intersect Hwy. 299 there. Also, if you come down the coast, you can pick up the guide book for the Aretes in Arcata.
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