Reaching through the blocky bulge on Nightmare, 12...
Description
Nightmare begins by climbing the first half of Dream Theme. Where Dream Theme traverses right, after the large hueco, continue up and left through a blocky bulge to a horn of lighter colored rock. Make a difficult cross through to a series of large but sloping holds, make a couple of moves on these and then continue straight up to the anchor.
Location
Right side of Karen Rock. Same start as Dream Theme.
When Richard Ludwig, Tim Wilhelmi and I TR'd this in the late 80's we called the line from sand to anchors Dream Theme. We messed around with all the variations araound it and it was Tim who first unlocked the sequence. I don't think we ever thought we were climbing a 5.12 rout, however...But it's a total pump, that's for sure!
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