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DescriptionMoonstone Beach is Eureka/Arcata's easiest access climbing area. The good quality sandstone and greenstone boulders and cliffs, combined with soft sand landings under most of the boulders, make this a favorite for both the "The-sun's-out-class-can-wait" and the after work crowd. From the parking area there are four main areas with clusters of problems and routes. The rock dries quickly after storms and is climbable all year 'round but it can be foggy in the summer and days of rain in the winter. A rope bag or tarp is recommended when pulling your rope to keep it out of the sand. Moonstone is also THE place to meet partners for other local adventures. Getting ThereTake Highway 101 north from Arcata, exit at Westhaven Drive(just north of Clam Beach), take a left under 101 and left back south and take the first right to the beach. CampingCamping can be found just south at Clam Beach or 15 minutes north at Patrick's Point State Park. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moonstone Beach:
Karen Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Karen Rock
Standard Route 5.9 TR, 60 feet Karen Rock
No Time aka North Crack 5.10b/c Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet North Rocks
Lizard Head 5.10d TR, 40 feet Karen Rock
Assembly Line 5.11a/b TR, Chipped, 60 feet Karen Rock
Dream Theme 5.11c TR, 55 feet Karen Rock
Nightmare 5.12a TR, 60 feet Karen Rock
Featured Route For Moonstone Beach
Dream Theme 5.11c CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Karen Rock
Dream Theme is one of the most prominent lines on Karen Rock. Start by underclinging the left leaning finger crack, reach right to the rounded side pull, put your right foot high and reach left to a undercling/sidepull. Step up and grab the "six pack handle" with your right hand. Reach through with your left hand to the first right facing edge. Grab the next edge with your right hand. Pull through to the giant hueco and the "egg". Traverse right ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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