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Redwood Coast

Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Aug 3, 2006
Administrator: Rick Shull
Latitude: 40.8221  Longitude: -124.1125 
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Helen bouldering at Houda Point, Humboldt.


Description 

Extending from the San Francisco Bay up to the Oregon border, the Northern coast of California is unique in its climate, laid back atmosphere, and its climbing. It's a bit off the beaten path for most I-5 travelers but the snaking Highway 1 and 101 cling to the coast and tie it all together with breathtaking scenery.

The climbing here is more subdued than many other California or Northwest areas and sees relatively little traffic. Many older routes and bouldering areas have little recorded information which can give the traveling climber a feeling of "new discovery" not found in many areas. Most of all, the climbing here is quite diverse with routes on sandstone, graywacke, limestone, gabbro, granite and quartzite. Where else can you grab some backcountry turns, fire off a route of two, hit the surf for a sesh, pull some highballs and still make the potluck by 6:00?


Getting There 

Getting to the Redwood Coast involves winding roads, no matter which way you are coming from. From the Bay Area or the Oregon Coast follow Highway 101 north or south. From the Northeast (Southern Oregon, Portland or other Northwest locales), follow I-5 exiting in Grant's Pass to Hwy 199 to 101 south. From the East (Tahoe, Sierra, Colorado, etc) find your way to Redding on the I-5 corridor. Take 299 until you hit 101. The Eureka/Arcata area is the population hub of the Redwood Coast. Arcata is a college town and is home to Humboldt State University and has all of the usual amenities found around schools. There is a thriving music and bar scene (4 micro breweries in the county) with action most nights of the week. Gear shops are located in Arcata and Eureka. After a hard send, check out TOMO (click the Eureka/Arcata link for food and lodging) on the Arcata Plaza-Great Sushi!


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redwood Coast:
She's Got Jugs   V1-2     Boulder, 20 feet   Houda Point : Houda North
Karen Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Standard Route   5.9     TR, 60 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Lizard Head   5.10d     TR, 40 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Goldrush   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Assembly Line   5.11a/b     TR, Chipped, 60 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Gooseberry   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Trinity Aretes : Visions Wall
Dream Theme   5.11c     TR, 55 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Visions Of Impalement   5.11d R     Trad, 100 feet   Trinity Aretes : Visions Wall
Nightmare   5.12a     TR, 60 feet   Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
Browse More Classics in Redwood Coast


Featured Route For Redwood Coast
Goldrush

Goldrush 5.11a  CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Upper Shooting Gallery
Follow the golden water streak up the center of the Shooting Gallery. A steep start leads to a reachy crux at the third bolt. The rest of the climb is pump-management and route finding, there's always a jug to be found......[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Redwood Coast Slideshow Add Photo
California dreamin'

California dreamin'

A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach to The Land of the Lost.

A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach t...

Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December 1st, 2006.

Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December ...

The Alps on the first day of the new year.

The Alps on the first day of the new year.

The Lost Coast.

The Lost Coast.

Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11c), LOTL.

Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11c), LOTL.

Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly 11a/b. Snag Crag, Land of the Lost.

Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly 11a/b. Sna...

Wild azaleas at LOTL.

Wild azaleas at LOTL.

Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.

Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.

A misty Humboldt afternoon.

A misty Humboldt afternoon.

 Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL

Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL

Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.

Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.

The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed from The Land of the Lost.

The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed ...

Looking north to Trinidad Head, Humboldt County.

Looking north to Trinidad Head, Humboldt County.

Jim French on Karma Kazi, 5.11, Trinity Aretes

Jim French on Karma Kazi, 5.11, Trinity Aretes

TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fabulous 150 foot route.

TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fa...

Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.

Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.

Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,2008.

Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,20...

The Co-op in Arcata, Humboldt County.

The Co-op in Arcata, Humboldt County.

Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point.

Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point.

Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8) at LOTL, Humbolt County.

Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8) at LOTL, H...

Marc leading Low Tooth Count(10a), Snag Crag, LOTL.

Marc leading Low Tooth Count(10a), Snag Crag, LOTL...

The Big Chopper.

The Big Chopper.

Dry lightning cell that was part of the system that lit up Northern California last Friday and Saturday. This was an unusual storm that hit the coast range with over 3,500 strikes in 18 hours with very little rain. This cell near Lost Rocks in Redwood National Park was doing its best to drop a funnel. It's going to be a long season as crews have not even been able to respond to some of the 500 fires across Mendocino, Humboldt, Trinity and Del Norte counties.

Dry lightning cell that was part of the system tha...


Comments on Redwood Coast Add Comment
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By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA and Dyer,NV
Oct 24, 2006

A great guidebook for the Redwood Coast is Bigfoot Country Climbing. It is written and illustrated by Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello and is available at gear shops in Arcata and Eureka. Both of these climbers have worked tirelessly to put up dozens of routes in the region.