Pirate's Cove (AKA The Beach or Corona Del Mar)

BETA PHOTO: South cave. Right of staircase (if viewed from bea...

Description 

Shade and Sun. Best times are late in the day after the cliff has had some time to dry out. The climbing here is characterized by sandstone caves that come out into a short cliff. The sandstone is typically juggy. It can be VERY greasy. Recommended to bring shoes, chalkbag, brush for holds, towel to clean off shoes and get sand out of your eyes. Awesome landings onto soft sand beach. No need for a crashpad in many spots.

Craig Fry's "Southern California Bouldering Guide, 2nd edition" has this area listed and info.

Getting There 

Drive to Corona Del Mar State Beach. There is free parking along the roads that run along the beach or pay parking inside the park. The Cliff is located at the extreme west side of the beach. If you're in the beach parking lot head west past the picnic area and scramble over the rocks to a staircase that leads down the cliff to the beach and bouldering.

Featured Route For Pirate's Cove (AKA The Beach or Corona Del Mar)

Iron Man V2-3  CA : Orange County : Pirate's Cove (AKA The Beac...

Starts in the biggest cave then out to a straight up wall. Very good unique moves.unique...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Pirate's Cove (AKA The Beach or Corona Del Mar)

BETA PHOTO: Caves left of staircase.	BETA PHOTO: Caves further left (north) of staircase.	BETA PHOTO: Looking down at Pirate's Cove (Corona Del Mar Beac...
CDM at sunset	AJ, Melinda, and Sebastian climbing in Corona Del ...