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Ortega Falls
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5.7 
5.9 

5.7 

5.7

   

FA: N/A
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 251 page views

Submitted By: Nate Johnson on Aug 7, 2007


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The bolts at the top of the route. I described th...


Description 

This is the obvious gully on the left side of the main face at the falls you cant miss it.


Location 

After arriving at the base of the falls this is the obvious gully on the far left. you cant miss it


Protection 

This climb can be led but most people just top rope. There are three bolts and a rock tunnel that make for great top rope anchors



Photos of 5.7 Slideshow Add Photo
If the pool at the base of the route is full, you will have to mantel up this boulder and traverse right to start. This is when a static rope really helps (else you stretch the rope and fall into the pool).

If the pool at the base of the route is full, you ...


Comments on 5.7 Add Comment
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By Wes Pracht
From: Truckee, Ca
Jul 9, 2009

3 bolts up top, 2 with rap chains. Need medium slings to top rope, as the bolts are a little far back (2 feet or so) Fun little climb for where its at. You can easily walk to the top of the route, would have to use gear to lead

By Christopher Michaelson
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 1, 2009

Ortega Falls is a good place to bring beginner climbers (I actually cut my teeth there way back in 1994), or to try out new gear in a forgiving environment. The 5.7 on the left has plenty of holds, while offering a decent amount of exposure. The 5.9 to the right is most likely rated as such because of the crux (a 5' long 5.9 crack that's at about 3/8 of the way up the route); once you're past the crux, it really turns into a 5.6.

There are three bolts on the top for top roping; one is a bit shady and the other two have hangers that are very loose (along with nice rap rings). Due to the placements, it's difficult to get biners between the hangers and the rock, and you also have to be careful to not let your biners fulcrum on the rock. Fortunately, there is a large boulder about 4 feet behind the bolts that you can sling, and there are plenty of cracks in which you can place cams, nuts, etc.

I usually put a locker on all three hangers and create an equalized figure 8 from a 10m x 7mm cord. I then back it up with a cam (if I'm in a rush) or webbing/slings around the aforementioned boulder. The 10m cord provides an anchor that's long enough to extend over the edge.

When you're done with the TR, it's a great place to rapp as well. There is a nice ledge just below where your master would/should be. Weight your rapp device and enjoy the 60' drop down below.

There are other places to climb as well, including some falls up and to the right. Look for some old bolts, but be careful trusting them.