JESUS WALL (5.6, C1) This manky bolt ladder ascends the large blank face right of a huge chimney system splitting the front wall and is clearly visible from Topanga Canyon Blvd. Easy free climbing leads to the first hangerless bolt. Pro: Gear for 17 bolts, several rivet hangers.
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For those of you looking for some exciting aiding on old bolts at Stoney, give the bolt ladder here a whirl. The first bolt makes you think that it won't be too bad, but that's the nicest bolt on the route. The highlight is the bent nail hook thingy that twists. Overall it all felt pretty secure. All placements are good for body weight, but I wouldn't want to take a whipper on any of them.
It's easy to scramble to the top and setup a top rope and use that as backup in case a bolt pulls so you don't zipper the line. Most bolts at Stoney are suspect and these especially so. Almost every hanger is a spinner and some want rivet hangers behind the rusted hanger to keep the pull close to the rock.
Location
Obviouse bolt ladder in the middle of the Jesus wall. Climb up the first 10' and clip the starting bolt from a good ledge.
Walk off / up is the same as Jesus Wall. Either do the 5.1 climb / scramble up on the right of the wall (see Chris's photo here) or walk all the way around and on top of the wall the long way.
Protection
2 rivet hangers (more if fixed ones missing) 18 draws Screamers (optional if leading) aid gear
Currently (11/12/07) all bolts, rivets, crap are in pretty good condition so all you need are the rivet hangers (by pretty good I mean for an ancient bolt ladder). No hooks or anything fancy needed. You could easily get away with a few wired nuts and use those in place of the rivet hangers.
The top anchor is accessible by leaning over the edge (not bad). It has 3 bolts: 2 homemade hanger spinners that are suspect and partially pulled out and a newer looking nice bolt. I'd back the anchor up off the boulder directly behind it with a 20' sling.
hmm, more of a terminology question, but don't aid ratings by definition have danger ratings built in? Ie, C1 X is self-contradictory? Is that how to rate a rusty bolt ladder? Curious.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Nov 12, 2007
"It's all A1 until you fall". I was trying to convey that all the pieces seemed great, but whipping on bolts at Stoney could be your last time to do so. So really it's probably C2-3F, but I'm curious what people with more experience might say. I also had a TR backup, so hence it's C1 to do it that way, but leading it would make groundfall a possibility (or several aid grades harder). So I called it C1F-X as a compromise since I don't advocate leading on bolts at Stoney. So feel free to regrade it and the consensus will prevail.
edit: I reread it and realized what you meant. Anyway, I clarified.
Originally rated C1F-X, changed in body.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 12, 2007
Agreed, "C1 X" is self-contradictory. C1 by definition means that the placements (or in this case a bolt ladder) are straightforward and solid, and there is virtually no risk of any piece pulling. Also, "taking a whipper" is not really applicable when it comes to aiding a bolt ladder.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Nov 12, 2007
I redid the grade to C2 to more accurately reflect the lead of the line. According to the New Wave ratings it should be C3+ because of the groundfall potential, but that seems to high a number. I'll be curious to see what someone else says when they climb it (especially if they lead it / have led it). I could change it to C1 and call it a toprope too since lead bolt climbs are usually not recommended at Stoney. It seems a little tough to accurately describe the ease of placements (bolts = easy) with the danger factor associated with suspect bolts. Thoughts?
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 12, 2007
Jordan, I think you'd be hard pressed to find any bolt ladder listed on the entire site as harder than A1/C1, whether it be in Fisher Towers mud or Yosemite granite. Although I have not climbed this particular route, I would find it difficult to imagine a C2 or higher bolt ladder. Maybe Chris O has an opinion on it?
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 12, 2007
BTW, I'm not trying to be a jerk. I hope it didn't come across that way.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Nov 13, 2007
I'm regrading it back to C1 and just adding the PG-13 since the bolts may or may not hold a fall. Chris Mac. overcame this conundrum in the Big Walls Supertopos by adding an R to aid that has a dangerous fall potential. For example, the Black Tower pitch on Zodiac gets a C2R rating since it's C2 moves, but above a ledge. That's what I was trying to convey in the original C1F-X rating. C1 for ease of placements, F for the fixed rivet hangers, and X for the groundfall potential. The R just seems weird to me to think of runout on aid. I just didn't want to grossly misgrade something so the comments are appreciated.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Feb 19, 2008
I don't do a lot of aid, unless I'm stuck! BUT: Old rusty 1/4" star bolts and rivets in sandstone? I wouldn't touch this ancient bolt ladder if you paid me. Technically straight-forward ut decidedly risky.
Man I'm bummed that this route has more comments than any on the Stoney Point part of MP!
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