Pitch 1 (5.6) Climb up a loose, low-angle water chute to a ledge with a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2(5.10a) Climb up over a steep bulge and then follow the low-angle face to the left-hand of 2 water shoots. A short, steeper crux section leads up the water chute to the anchor. If you stray onto bigger holds on either side of the water streak, the rock quality diminishes significantly.
Make 2 rappels with a single 60m rope.
Location
The second obvious water chute encountered when hiking in--just past the apron of rock that sticks out at the base of Golden Years.
Protection
8 bolts per pitch, plus a 2-bolt anchor atop each pitch
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 14, 2009 rating: 5.9
Take care on the first couple of moves of P2. There's a cracked hold just above the first bolt off the belay. Make sure you're solid when you step up, and, the belayer is attentive. A fall going to the second bolt would have very bad consequences as you'd deck on/at the P2 belay (flat ledge).
The first pitch is very loose, make sure you're belayer and other people on the ground are aware of any rocks that come off.
P2 feels more like 5.8/5.9. Pulling over the roof at the P1 belay station and the finish to the anchors are the only 5.9 moves on P2. I agree, a fall just below the second bolt would land you hard at the P1 belay station. Positive but loose holds throughout.
The 2nd pitch of "The Serpent" is excellent. Most of the holds seem to be very solid, positive, although small, holds. At the crux, 5th bolt, the holds to the right of the water streak seem more positive than going straight up over the 5th and 6th bolt. We pulled off several large loose flakes just below the P1 anchor and cleaned and brushed the holds on the 1st pitch. Nice climb.
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