Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Easy Street
Show routes:
Select route...
Babe Ruth 
Blackjack 
Casey at the Bat 
Charlie Hustle 
Dirty Deeds 
Dugout 
Golden Slumbers 
Golden Years 
Harvey 
Head Wound 
Hippie Chick 
Psychedelic Sally  
Righteous Babe 
Rockhopper 
Serpent, The 
Watermark 

Head Wound 

5.9

   

FA: Doniel Drazin
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 180 feet
Views: 318 page views

Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Nov 6, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

A look own the first pitch of "Head Wound"


Description 

P1: (5.7) Climbs another channel just to the right of massive black waterstreak in the channel of Righteous Babe. A lot of loose rock, I can only wonder how this route got it's name. Considering it finishes at the double anchor I suggest just sticking to Righteous Babe's first pitch, it's better.

P2: (5.9) A great pitch, best finish from the dual anchors of the three choices you have. From the anchor climb right, following the bolt line to a vertical section. A couple of fun moves pull you onto the wall where it eases up a bit. The end holds one more surprise, best moves of the route.

I can't be definitive about the length. I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare. Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.


Location 

Starts in a channel about 10 feet right of the channel with the dark watermark where Righteous Babe starts.

From the first anchors go right.


Protection 

Well bolted. Take 9 draws plus gear for the anchors. Mussy hooks at the first anchor, sport shuts at the top.



Photos of Head Wound Slideshow Add Photo
A look down the first pitch of "Head Wound"

A look down the first pitch of "Head Wound"

The second pitch of "Head Wound."

The second pitch of "Head Wound."

Banks sportin' the best in soft helmet attire whilst gettin' some Headwound.

Banks sportin' the best in soft helmet attire whil...


Comments on Head Wound Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 15, 2009
rating: 5.8

First pitch anchor is actually a pair of Fixe sport anchors. Second pitch anchors are Fixe Super Shuts.

Rock quality may have cleaned up some. We didn't notice much loose rock as of 13 August 2009. Cheers.