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Malibu Creek State Park
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Malibu Creek State Park

Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
Administrators: Art Morimitsu, Jay Tanzman
Elevation: 900 feet
Latitude: 34.0961  Longitude: -118.7310 
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Here is the second traverse across from the Ghetto...


Description 

Sport climbing area with a number of excellent steep routes. Few routes below 5.10. Three main areas: Planet of the Apes Wall (good for top roping), the Ghetto Wall (steep cave-like climbs) and the Mash Boulder.

Park is open 8AM to sunset; no dogs. Parking fee (although free parking is available with a longer approach hike).


Getting There 

This area is located in Malibu Creek State Park off of the 101 Fwy via Las Virgenes Rd (b/n the 101 Fwy and the PCH on Las Virgenes), [ed. about 35 miles west of downtown Los Angeles].

Map



Featured Route For Malibu Creek State Park
Clipping third bolt

Urban Struggle 5.12a/b  CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains
Very short crux section. A few moves through superb pockets and pinches to jugs at the top. Have fun and try the alternate start jumping off the boulder and grabbing the shelf at the bottom. ...[more]


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By veedublvr
From: ?, Ca
Feb 19, 2007

The water was really high when I was there making it impossible to get to the upper canyon. The only wall that was accessible was the Planet of the Apes wall. Had a great time, though. Such a beautiful place to climb I will definitely be going here again.

I found the directions to the crag were pretty vague though, so I will give a stab at it.
Once you are in the park, there are two parking lots, park in the second one. If you keep going you will go around a bend into the campgrounds (20$ a night for tent camping, 50$ for RV's for all you wimps). From the second parking lot cross the paved street drop onto the road that crosses a creek it is paved for the first 200 feet or so then turns to dirt road. Keep going down the dirt road. You will see a fork on your left, don't go this way keep right. There is another fork in the road this time stay to the left. You will be walking along the river under a bunch of full oaks. After walking for a minute or two a bridge will come into view that crosses the river. There is a rather large white house on the other side of the river. From here you can see the large rock formations in the canyon to the Northwest. I forget exactly where the foot path is but it heads STRAIGHT for the bridge, once at the bridge you will see a path to your right (north) follow that path past a few park benches it will drop down to the river go around a bend in the river and there is the first rock formation(planet of the apes) To get to the rest of the routes cross the river, and traverse along the wall above the water. from here I do not know since the water was way to high and the traverse was under water.