Leading the start of the second pitch of Blackjack...
Description
Pitch 1: Start up the black-streaked, overhanging face. There is an anchor just after the end of the overhanging section that can be used to descend if you are only climbing the first pitch. Otherwise, continue to the higher anchor in the corner.
Pitch 2: Move right from the anchor and climb up beautiful edges.
Pitch 3: Continue with easy moves on somewhat crumbly rock to the top of the cliff.
Descend from the top by three rappels with a 60-meter rope.
Location
This is the leftmost route on the Easy Street/Far Side section of the wall. The start is 75 yards past the Kamikaze Cave.
By Ryan Kelly From: the gym Nov 4, 2007 rating: 5.10c/d
I think the description got flipped, it's more like 3 pitches 200 feet, not 2 pitches 300 feet.
Apparently something broke off somewhere around the 3rd to 4th bolt on P1. The jugs vanish and you have a couple moves through some crimpers, a pinch and eventually an undercling. It's a good route, but not 10b, IMHO.
Alternately, you can just move right onto some less interesting climbing on choss & jugs. It'd probably go at around 10b.
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