OVERVIEW Excellent top rope protected climbing for beginners and intermediates in a truly stunning setting. Everyone's first day of climbing should be at a place like this.
The site boasts 2 different faces: WEST-FACING WALL--5 low-angle climbs up sharp edges in the 5.6-5.9 range--in truth, there are an infinite number of variations to these 5 routes. This wall is perfect for developing footwork and crimp strength. All lead bolts on the west-facing wall are sketchy. Do not learn to lead at Point Dume! SOUTH-FACING (seaside) WALL--2 steep, pumpy routes in the 5.10 range, with other variations possible.
Long anchor-cords are required to top rope most routes.
WEATHER/CLIMATE Moderated by the presence of temperate ocean water, this site is a year-round cliff. On cool winter days, the rock can feel slick.
For a memorable day of whale-watching, be sure to climb at Point Dume from mid-December to March.
Getting There
From PCH, turn on Westward Beach Road and head East for approximately 1 mile. Pass through the State Park gate (pay the toll) and proceed to the far side of the parking area, closest to the wall. Access top rope anchors by climbing a circuitous path that begins to the north of the main wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Point Dume:
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Aug 17, 2006
I have recently overheard beginning lead climbers talk about going to Pt. Dume to practice lead climbing. Beginners and experts alike should be advised that the lead bolts on the main face are almost exclusively compression bolts. Compression bolts are considered sketchy (by the American Safe Climbing Association and others) when placed in Yosemite granite. Rusted compression bolts in a sea-side cliff are a death-wish.
Similar bolts have been pulled from nearby climbing sites with only slight pressure.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 15, 2006
As far as climbing at Point Dume,
5 out of 5 stars for scenic value. 2 out of 5 stars for route quality. 0 out of 5 stars if you plan on leading anything.
If you are looking for a secluded day of climbing, don't go here. Having said that, it is worth a day of climbing if only to experience the view of the beach and the ocean spray hitting your face. The rock is very slippery early in the morning and on overcast days due to the coastal environment.
Why don't we get together and rebolt these routes. I will donate my time and some of the money for this operation... Who else is interested in doing this?
Heads up Point Dume climbers, my buddy in Pasadena just got some fresh metal thanks to Greg at ASCA and we plan to replace the lead bolts this weekend. We’ll post pictures.
Update: Unfortunately the potluck approach to bringing the necessary gear didn’t quite work out, the individual responsible for bring the grinder was unable to show and as a result we could not remove the rusty bolts. The plan to replace said lead bolts will have to be re-scheduled. Point Dume area climbers will be kept in the loop.
rebolting Dume will take some real hard work. it might help to consult the F.A party to help you get the real bolts replaced.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Mar 17, 2009
I had a great time running up these routes. But it would have been a lot more fun had I been leading. I ran up to the first bolt on the 5.7, looked at it long and hard, and backed down. I'd love to see this wall rebolted but I can understand if it doesn't happen - probably wouldn't be long 'til they were badly rusted again. :0(
There's a nice new bolted anchor on the lower ledge that does not require long slings for top-roping.
the drive on a holiday from downtown L.A. is particularly hateful. It took me three hours going on the 10 west and pch North. Maybe Kanan Dume Rd from 101 is better?
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Aug 14, 2009
It is currently against the law to remove, replace or add bolts to the wall at Point Dume. The State Park is actively enforcing this law. Violators can be charged with a misdemeanor (CCR 4307a) and have their gear confiscated.
The State Park's District Environmental Coordinator would like to see an explicit ban on climbing at this site, so all climbers should be advised.
In particular, please stay on developed trails when walking to the top of the cliff. Observe all posted signs.
Someone has been chopping bolts and anchors in the last couple of days. Not really sure why anyone would want to smash and chop the eyebolt anchors at the top of two routes. I climbed up the left most route only to find that the once bomber three point anchor is now down to one eyebolt.
Matthew - care to elaborate about the E.C.'s desire to ban climbing here?
Went climbing here today and was pretty shocked at the stupid behavior. People need to cut out the crap like hand over handing their top rope to get to the top to clean or climbing down to the pre-summit unprotected before tying in to rap. Both times I've been here I've seen stupid stuff by barely mediocre climbers trying to impress the newbies they are taking for rides. It's an accident waiting to happen or at least a really bad precedent to set for beginners. It's also pretty bad to see people hang-dogging the worthless bolts. Treat the lead routes as solos, and if you can't climb that grade at full confidence... don't. I don't want to see someone get hurt or this place shut down. Sorry to rant, but anyone going to Point Dume, remember it's a crag, not a beach party.
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