OVERVIEW Excellent top rope protected climbing for beginners and intermediates in a truly stunning setting. Everyone's first day of climbing should be at a place like this.
The site boasts 2 different faces: WEST-FACING WALL--5 low-angle climbs up sharp edges in the 5.6-5.9 range--in truth, there are an infinite number of variations to these 5 routes. This wall is perfect for developing footwork and crimp strength. All lead bolts on the west-facing wall are sketchy. Do not learn to lead at Point Dume! SOUTH-FACING (seaside) WALL--2 steep, pumpy routes in the 5.10 range, with other variations possible.
Long anchor-cords are required to top rope most routes.
WEATHER/CLIMATE Moderated by the presence of temperate ocean water, this site is a year-round cliff. On cool winter days, the rock can feel slick.
For a memorable day of whale-watching, be sure to climb at Point Dume from mid-December to March.
Getting There
From PCH, turn on Westward Beach Road and head East for approximately 1 mile. Pass through the State Park gate (pay the toll) and proceed to the far side of the parking area, closest to the wall. Access top rope anchors by climbing a circuitous path that begins to the north of the main wall.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Aug 17, 2006
I have recently overheard beginning lead climbers talk about going to Pt. Dume to practice lead climbing. Beginners and experts alike should be advised that the lead bolts on the main face are almost exclusively compression bolts. Compression bolts are considered sketchy (by the American Safe Climbing Association and others) when placed in Yosemite granite. Rusted compression bolts in a sea-side cliff are a death-wish.
Similar bolts have been pulled from nearby climbing sites with only slight pressure.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 15, 2006
As far as climbing at Point Dume,
5 out of 5 stars for scenic value. 2 out of 5 stars for route quality. 0 out of 5 stars if you plan on leading anything.
If you are looking for a secluded day of climbing, don't go here. Having said that, it is worth a day of climbing if only to experience the view of the beach and the ocean spray hitting your face. The rock is very slippery early in the morning and on overcast days due to the coastal environment.
Why don't we get together and rebolt these routes. I will donate my time and some of the money for this operation... Who else is interested in doing this?
Heads up Point Dume climbers, my buddy in Pasadena just got some fresh metal thanks to Greg at ASCA and we plan to replace the lead bolts this weekend. We’ll post pictures.
Update: Unfortunately the potluck approach to bringing the necessary gear didn’t quite work out, the individual responsible for bring the grinder was unable to show and as a result we could not remove the rusty bolts. The plan to replace said lead bolts will have to be re-scheduled. Point Dume area climbers will be kept in the loop.
Point Dume
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