South area

The climbing slabs of the South area.

Description 

The South Area of the Devil’s Punchbowl consists of several long sandstone slabs arranged on a hillside, facing north. This area sits in a valley to the south of and about 300’ below the parking lot. A creek graces this area in the winter and spring, flowing down out of the San Gabriel Mountains, along the base of the climbing walls. The preeminent wall in this area is Very Direct (VD) wall. It features by far the most routes and sits in front of the other walls. The sandstone in the South Area tends to be more homogenous than what is found in the North Area, lending well to fine smearing and not a lot of aggregate rock. It is also in this southern part of the park where most of the moderate climbing is found. Since the walls are predominantly north-facing, the South Area is best for climbing on warm days. It can get very hot in summer.

Getting There 

From the parking lot, take the trail at the south side (to the left of the Burkhart Horse Trail sign). Follow this trail a short distance to a fork. Take the left fork over to a nice lookout of the southern valley. From here, follow the trail down on the right, into the valley. The trail will switch back to the left and continue east to the bottom of the valley, with several small turns and switchbacks. Once you encounter the creek, head right. Continue upstream, making a few crossings along the way, until you reach the base of a large sandstone slab. This is Very Direct (VD) wall. Allow about 10 minutes hiking from the parking lot.

The Classics

Featured Route For South area

Overhanger 5.9  CA : Los Angeles County : ... : VD (Very Direct) Wall

Start just left of the big cave in the center of VD wall. Climb the arête past three bolts to an overlap. The crux is passing the 4th bolt, as you surmount the overlap to continue up the aggregate face; a nice transition move from arête to headwall but the aggregate yields fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Take the seam up and right to the ledge, then move left and up the final headwall on easier slab to chain anchors. Rappel...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of South area Slideshow

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Climbers above the cave on VD wall.	BETA PHOTO: This is the trailhead for the South area.	Punchbowl Creek in late afternoon.