Broken Bits 

FA:  Don Wilson & Jack Marshall, 11/88 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 26 page views Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Broken Bits starts off the lower left of the shot ...

Description 

Interesting Joshua Tree face climbing, though the start, which traverses a bit, is fairly traditionally bolted and the slab is still exfoliating to some degree. Falling before the 3rd bolt would not be recommended. Continues up, trending right near a gully/chimney. Follow left of the chimney up to a large ledge.

Either scramble right to the “anchor” on Early Bird (2 rope rap), or downclimb off the back.

Location 

On Fat Freddie’s Cat, up the gully a little bit (the next face) from Early Bird. You can either start off a boulder leaning near the main face, or use the first two bolts of a line to the left (Time Avenger 5.11b), then traverse right and up on the slab.

Protection 

A couple of rusty buttonheads, I can’t remember if anything was needed for the chimney at the end. Some medium pro for an anchor at the top.