"Enchanted Stairway" on Disneyland Dome. Photo by ...
Description
This was my second time leading a face climb at Joshua Tree, and it was exciting. The first bolt is about 40 feet off the ground. Just before you get to the first bolt you need to make a couple of 5.8 moves, including a high step/mantle on a small chicken head. Before you make the moves to the first bolt, make sure to look down. 40 unprotected feet below your feet you will see a broken Manzanita bush and a cactus. I wonder how the branches got broken?After the bolt comes a few nice 5.9 moves. Then the climb gets easier on big patina flakes. 50 feet past the first bolt you will come to a second bolt. Then about 60 more feet to the top.Definitely worth doing if you are a competentent 5.9 leader. It is also perfect for a cold day because it faces the sun.
Protection
There are two bolts on the route. It is also possible to sling a couple of flakes/horns after the second bolt.
After the initial difficulties, you are rewarded with many feet of jug hauling on interesting rock for JT. Would be a classic if it weren't for the initial forty feet or so.
By Graham Roff From: San Diego May 6, 2008 rating: 5.7 PG13
If you start the route up the crack (as in the picture, and following the most obvious line) then there is no significant run-out and the climbing is much easier than 5.9. Tricky gear can be had most of the way up using nuts and small cams and slinging a few horns. I only found a single bolt about 20 feet above the end of the crack (which agrees with the Vogel guide). It is a 60m rope stretcher to go from the base of the crack all the way to the top of the formation - a long fun climb!
Disneyland Dome
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