Book Of Changes 

Which bolt was the original? I assume one of the bolts near the rampy section up high, but do not know. I agree there would be adequate protection but it would probably get a PG rating as it had in the guides... The block that pulled may have offered pro placements (though probably sketchy if it was loose)? I don't recall if there were other / better options near it, I didn't pay a lot of attention. Like I said I don't know who added the bolts, but the top three are like a bad joke. There's one maybe 2-3 feet below the ramp, one on the ramp, and one that's clippable while standing on the ramp. I'm not in any way defending the bolts, just stating what I found when I climbed the route.

I'll be there next week. Are the bolts gone yet?

From the ASCA website: "the only 1/4" bolt (2nd prot. bolt; a spinner 1/4" bolt with blue-colored Leeper hanger) replaced 1/2002 by Greg Barnes/ASCA. Note that this route currently has 5 protection bolts; some were apparently added in the past few years."

I was climbing this route a couple of months ago and a large detached block came off in my hands. The block was about 2 foot by 2 foot and came loose from about 2/3 way up the route just after the bolted crux. I managed to hold on to the block long enough for my partner to take cover. The crux may be somewhat easier with this change.

I climbed the route after this incident and found the crux to be the start... There was still alot of cruft and dirt where the block had obviously been so I did some brushing off to the best of my ability to clean it up some.

Craig Fry and I did the FA of this route (I lead it) with one bolt and a couple of pins. Who bolted it up? I know that neither of us did. I wanted to call it "Sanctuary" but somehow that other name stuck.

I don't know who added them, but from what I've heard they've been there since last spring at least. There was a thread on rec.climbing regarding this a few months back as well with a title of "Book of Changes" or very similar, I'm sure you can find it via Google groups.

Here's the link if you have some time to kill.

1 bolt remains (replaced 1/2002). The fixed pins indicated in the 92 Vogel guide are gone. Bolted rap anchor (single 60m just barely makes it to the ground).

I was somewhat dissappointed by this route. It has a lot of loose rock and is tricky to protect.

The direct start, as opposed to starting to the right, is 5.10c/d and recommended; aka the Book Of Dirt.

note- protection is intricate and difficult and a big fall is possible at the crux. i declined to lead it after rapping down it and noticing the distance between the only bolt and gear both below and above it. maybe in the future when i'm a little bolder!

that said- the route is alot of fun to climb!

Didn't notice any loose rock, but some of the softest rock I've seen at Josh exists on this route. The crux comes before you can clip the bolt and is protected by marginal gear. Without the fixed pins (gone now) it is runout after the bolt, too. A fun TR, but a semi-serious lead.

There is definitely loose rock on this route. Protection is tricky the entire way and the rock turns to crumbly, creaky, flakes and edges after the bolt. The runnout after the bolt along with the poor rock quality at that spot makes for a serious lead. I lead it and once I pulled on a few of the holds above the bolt...i decided to stop there. Cool thing is you can bail at the bolt or enjoy a toprope from the anchors above. Cool moves down below..

I just led this route the other day and there is currently one bolt just below the freshly broken rock. What I didn't know until now is that you're suppose to go right after the bolt and into the crack above. I went left up the bulge and pulled onto the sketchy/grainy slab which eventually met back up with the crack to the right. Does anyone do this as a variation? It didn't seem right at the time seeing as how it felt harder than 10b. Would be a pretty bad fall to blow it on the slab... Fun route.