Morning Thunder 

FA:  Craig Fry & Dave Evans 2/85 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 125 feet Views: 722 page views Submitted By: Joe LeMay on Apr 21, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Leading Morning Thunder. January, 2005. Photo: Pat...

Description 

The longest route in the Grotto. Climb the slight overhanging corner using crack, stem, and chimney moves. There is always a 'small' placement possibility in the corner. It will take small nuts and TCUs. Use 2' slings on all placements and the rope drag will be acceptable higher up, otherwise you might be stopped.
You will be standing/stemming in body tension a few times. The crux is getting onto a left edge low on the route. It isn't over yet, and the route continues for a ways through two more overhang sections. The upper section is a sustained crack.
Belay in a small alcove.
To descend, face climb out of the alcove to the left past a pin and belay on a big platform. Rappel off long fixed slings toward the anchor for Book of Changes.

Protection 

TCUs from 0, Cams to 3, Nuts from 3, 1" and 2" for anchor.

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Morning Thunder in the overhanging corner

Past the hard section on Morning Thunder. January,...