Pitch 1: Climb straight up from a flake at the base of the wall, through a small roof. Continue past a couple bolts and traverse left under the imposing headwall. Traverse past several bolts and belay at the left end of the headwall.
Pitch 2: Climb up a bit, then angle up and left. You might be able to place a couple pieces, but this pitch is basically runout on easier climbing. Aim for a notch in the upper headwall, pull the steep move and set a belay above. This might stretch a 60m rope. Pitch 2 can be broken into two pitches, with an intermediate belay at a double bolt anchor in the middle of the pitch.
Location
Look for the obvious notch in the lower flake/roof toward the right end of the wall.
Protection
Bolts, some tiny nuts and small cams, long runners and quickdraws. Medium to large cams for the final anchor on top.
Comments on Desert Delirium (aka Lost in the Wonderland)
By lars johnson From: San Francisco, CA Feb 26, 2007
Marty Brenner and I did this route three months ago. There are couple of things he forgot to mention.
On the walk in I [too] casually placed my foot on a sloping rock. As I stood up my foot skated and I fell back into a substantial collection of beaver tail cacti. Marty "missed the clip" by not getting his camera out before pulling me out a howling mess. I was picking needles out of my butt for days. That aside, it is a long and complicated walk adequately described by the map on page 303 of the Falcon-Vogel Guidebook.
This route earns it R rating on both pitches. Pitch 1 has a small roof about 10 or 15' up that is well protected. After that is is at least 25 or 30 feet to the first clip, with some 5.9 right before the bolt. Bolts are well spaced in a trad manner but could stand to be rebolted.
Rest of the route is as Marty described it. Really an all day adventure for those who like that 'outback' feeling. Three stars
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