On the way to The Near East an old guy needed help...
Description
The Wonderland Of Rocks is very aptly named; there is so much rock there it will make your eyes water! The Wonderland is one of the few places you can go in JTNP and climb for an entire day without seeing another soul. Obviously, this may not apply for some of the more sought-after climbs like Figures On A Landscape (5.10b) and Mental Physics (5.7). If you haven't been there before, take a hike into the Wonderland, get the lay of the land, and marvel at all the routes! Expect to get lost occasionally and have fun doing it.
Getting There
The Wonderland of Rocks is located just north and east of the Barker Dam area.
Andrew Gram adds: Head right at Echo Rock as if going to Barker Dam. Instead of pulling in to the Barker Dam trailhead, turn right onto a dirt road going to the Desert Queen Mine. Turn left onto another dirt road and there is a small parking area with an outhouse. It is also a short hike from Barker Dam through a wash to get to the same point.
This 4 pitch route provides an excellent excercise in traversing along a thin dike that runs about mid-height through all three sections of the formation. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are scarier for the second than the leader. The route was put up over a number of years, with the 1st pitch being the last one established.Pitch 1: (5.10b) Start off a small ledge near the left end of the west face, (near a small Yucca). Tricky and thin face moves up and...[more]
Can anyone tell me the best way (or a way) to get to the Lost in the Wonderland Slab? I made it to Bighorn Dome and took a left along Boulder Canyon thinking that I could hit the slab from the west. Not such a good idea for those of you considering it.
There are two main ways to get to the Lost In The Wonderland Slab, but going through the aptly named Boulder Canyon is not one of them...unless you happen to be a Bighorn Sheep.
The first approach is to cut right past the Freak Brothers Dome (heading east), past the north side of the Pea Brain and Red Obelisk until you enter a large open valley. Continue heading east/northeast (you'll be facing the distant flanks of Queen Mtn.) along the Wonderland Wash, passing the entrance to Boulder Canyon, past a huge boulder with a Leavitt project on your left until you have to make your way through some rocks and join another wash coming in from the south. The wash turns left and heads northeast here (along the base of Queen Mtn.), and soon you'll see the Don Genaro Cliffs and Don Genaro Boulder on your right. Make a left (heading west) when you reach the Cornerstone and follow a major wash past The Poodle Smasher until the Lost In The Wonderland Slab comes into view on your left. Plan on at least a solid hour of hiking for the approach.
Another approach is to head north in the Wonderland Valley past the Freak Brothers Dome. Continue along the wash in a northerly direction past the Duckwaddle Domes, Gumby Dome, and Diarrhea Dome (with the prominent Owl Pinnacle atop it). Once past the turnoff for Diarrhea Dome/Bighorn Mating Grotto continue on past the Mystic Cove, scramble over a rough section and hit a wash heading east. Follow this until the Lost In The Wonderland Slab comes into view on your right. Again, plan on at least an hour of solid hiking to reach this point.
It's possible combine the two and make a giant loop hike, which will give you a grand tour of the southern Wonderland and blow your mind with the scenic beauty, solitude and amazing amount of rock in the area. Perfect for those cold, windy days when it's too cold to climb.
I finally made it out to the Wonderland Slab and was dissapointed to see that Desert Delierium is dangerously runout with only one bolt (that I could see) between the ground and the left traversing roof. That bolt had webbing slings on it which lead me to believe that things get desparate up there. I'm sure a harder climber wouldn't hesitate.
Wonderland Of Rocks
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