Solid Gold 

Most people seem to either love this route or hate it, and I am in the latter category. It's a repetitive crimp-fest, although it does lead to a very cool summit. But this is one route I'll not repeat.

A hallmark classic! Brutally honest line up a golden waterstreak. Great composure is required on the first pitch which is run-out in places. On my first attempt of this route I took a huge fall just before clipping the last bolt. Can't believe I got back on the horse.

The second pitch is a worthy counter-point to pitch one; steep and exposed with very cool technical moves.

Can be sweaty in the morning sun.

Line, purity, technique, exposure, setting.

From the ASCA website: "A bomber anchor is at the top of the crack on the second pitch [of My Laundry], and is the rap route for Solid Gold as well. ASCA 2/02"

For a more exciting ending to this climb, instead of going to the left to end the 2nd pitch on the 5.7 groove, go straight up past the last bolt for a hair-raising 5.11d finish. We originally did this a few weeks after the initial ascent.

That bolt after the mantle move is a bit of a stretch. Surely makes the move exciting. I peeled off my feet in the mantle but managed to still hold with the left hand. Close. Great route if you are into crimps.

Let's see. I'm presently recovering from falling just below the last move on the first pitch. If this route is 10a, then Loose Lady, Sweatband, Terrawassie Wiggle etc. etc. etc. are all 5.8's. The second pitch is the crux at 10a which means the first can't be over 5.9 vis a vis a little logic. But then, what does logic have to do with RC. I'll go back, but I dread it.

As per my fall: As I was traversing up and left to the mantle, a party above allowed a loop of rope to drop behind me. When I fell, I instinctively grabbed for the loop as I went by. The instant I realized what I'd done, I let go. I don't know how much rope I pulled, but it was enough to burn through a portion of the daisy chain on the belayer above. I regret grabbing the loop, but all happened in a split second in the first ten feet or so of a long fall.

I noticed as I was climbing the first pitch, it appeared that quite a few holds had probably come off recently. Both my partner and I agree that the pitch seemed around 10c. I'll go back because my ego-stupidity-demands it; however, I'm not looking forward to it.

Solid Gold has always seemed hard to me... We did it one year for perhaps the first time of the season. The leader got to the top, right by the mantle shelf, and found a pile of powdered bird droppings. At least I think it was bird shit. It was black, slick, and finer than sand. He of course had to give it the push. It cascaded down the face, covering every hold on the route. When I climbed the sequence was something like; lock off, blow hard at next hold, inhale bird shit, cough, repeat. A fairly miserable experience, to say the least.

I have done this route several times and have always enjoyed it. For Joshua Tree standards I didn't feel like it was very runout. I think "fixing" this route is totally unnecessary. I haven't been on it since holds have broken off but I do remember having a fairly good selection of holds to chose from as you move up the face, and I never felt like there was and dangerous fall potential. If it has increased in difficulty that may be a good reason to go back and give it another lead.

You going to tell me that routes get harder every time it rains?

Try doing the climb in EB's ,..that' s what everyone wore when the climb went up... The damn climb has always been hard (except for KP and Hensel, who find all climbs with dime edges '"easy.").....

Can't imagine rain doing anything to holds (except as Murf observes, many get them covered in dirt or other substances). If some overpowering ya-hoo pulled some the holds off, well that might affect the rating of the first pitch, but as has been observed there are lots of holds.

And as for being run out, get a life! The first pitch is practically a sport route.

I am working on Vol. 2 right now (which includes the So. Wonderland) and will end up re-climbing Solid Gold at some point this spring or fall to check the route and rating.

BTW, the second pitch is the crux (10b; a hold did break off a number of years ago).

Over the years I've guided a lot of people on this route, and the general consensus from these folks is that the first pitch is harder than 10a! Many fall all over the first pitch, then cruise the second pitch, which is a bit reachy at the crux move up to the horizontal crack. Many people also comment that they find the first pitch of Solid Gold harder than the first pitch of Figures. A couple of years ago the first pitch of Solid Gold was plastered with bird detritus, which has taken a while to wash off. Sliperry and sharp is a good way to describe it. Difficulty depends on how stiff your shoes are and how good you are at edging. 10c?

I climbed this route last spring. It was cold and I couldn't feel my fingers until the 3rd bolt or so. Many of the moves were challenging and I felt fully engaged. I milked all of the rests that I could, providing me with what seemed like alot of time standing on only small edges. And then the mantle, far above the bolt, providing both excitement and demanding the determination to concentrate for one more important move.

Solid Gold means so much more to me than grades or style of climbing. At the time, Solid Gold was a testpiece for me. Pushing my limits on a classic line in a classic Joshua Tree setting. I on-sighted this climb, and as I stood on top of the South Astrodome, I felt as good as I have ever felt in my life. I had experienced the essence of why many of us climb, and I experienced this on Solid Gold. To me, it will always be one of my most memorable climbs.

I thought j-tree 10a to be pretty accurate. We made the mistake of "warming up" on this climb one winter after a six hour car ride. Not a smart choice. Did anyone else have trouble getting to the mantle on the first pitch? I had to really commit and jump for the mantle holds. A little scary since your a bit run out.

This lovely route has lost many holds recently as evidenced by the fresh granite in contrast to the "water shoot" salman look of the rest of the climb. My partner and I both thought it was 5.10a/5.10b with 1-2 5.10c moves. I do have to admit that I have just recovered from a nastly sprained ankle (bad year?!),...and I was not so gutsy as my partner. After a few clips, I bailed from "fear of pain" should I hit my foot again! (Yes, I wimped--I'll admit it!) Actually, hiking out was the worst part anyways due to high water. By the time we reached the parking lot, I was munching the "Vitamin Ibu". I would like to go actually do the climb soon again, as this is usually my "type of climb" in addition to finger cracks and seams (sick, eh?). ANY GOOD BETA from recent ascents? (other than, "don't fall")Maybe I'll visit the zen master at the "metaphysics center" first! (Kidding)Yours TruelyTraiseB

Wonderful route when I led it in 91. Yes, the edges on the first pitch were sharp on the fingers, but lovely for the feet. The last moves to the belay provoked a bit of thought. Nice job by Laeger et al to not punch in another bolt. I only recall one bolt above the slung horn on the second pitch, but who cares. All quality.

A couple thoughts. There was a 2nd bolt off line to the right because that was the only place to stand on the lead. The hold I stood on broke off just as the bolt went in. I understand it has been led straight up. Great.

Some of us used EB's, some didn't. I used adidas sneakers with green dot soles.

We regarded the second pitch as about 5.8, very elegant.

It's interesting to hear Michael Jaffe's recollection of the difficulty of the second pitch. Since I was the one that bolted that pitch, maybe it just seemed harder to me. At the time,I thought (with concurrance from the rest of the group) that it was a solid 5-10a. Amazing what all those years of debauchery will do to ones memory, eh Mike?

It had been eight years since I last climbed Solid Gold, and I found the first pitch much harder and more polished than I remember.

It might be a "10a", but given the slick nature of the small (and now rounded from years of travel) edges it is definitely becoming harder IMO. Just like "Figures on a Landscape", I'd recommend being very comfortable at the grade before climbing this one. Unlike the typical JTree friction route, the polished rock on the first pitch causes each stance to be more tenuous than normal for a JTree 10a.

And the mantle above the 2nd-to-last bolt gets one's attention.

The 2nd pitch is varied and spectacular, and I enjoyed it far more than the 1st pitch.

First pitch all bolts. I placed small nuts for the belay. For the 2nd pitch, I placed a 1/2 Camalot getting to the first bolt, and a green alien getting to the last bolt. And a slung horn is quite handy as well.

It's rather sustained, perhaps this makes it feel harder than it actually is. This climb also reveals the inadequacy of grading a climb by technical difficulty alone - 5.10a, 10c? Just doesn't really describe it does it? There needs to be a shake-up in the rating system.

We climbed this last weekend. The first pitch hasn't changed an iota --not slicker, holds haven't broken off, no nothing. But, it is pretty sustained and probably worthy of 10a/b. Crux of 2nd pitch is technically as hard or harder than anything on 1st pitch. Maybe no-one knows how to use their feet anymore....

Route will be rated 10a/b in Vol. 2.

Also, the 4th bolt drilled out right is very stupid and should be moved further left (off good stance). If FA party -- Lonne, Laeger, et all approve, this should be done. Run out to last 7th bolt is a bit bizaare since a good stance is available before the mantle... Oh well, at least you won't hit the deck.

Solid Gold goes left from the belay, past a gear placement or two and a few widely spaced bolts! 10a and spicey!

Just did this for the first time in many years. It seems the bolts on the first pitch are more in line than I remember, so maybe the bolt Randy spoke of moving has been moved? Falling from the easy mantle towards the end would be very bad--worse than fumbling the easy mantle at the end of the first pitch of Figures IMO. I also think the first pitch of Solid Gold has harder moves than anything on Figures, and is more seriously runout in general. There's potential for hitting the deck on this one if your belayer is lazy or inattentive, whereas on Figures once you've clipped the first bolt you're golden.