This route lies just left of the classic Mental Physics on the west face of Lenticular Dome. Typically done as two pitches, but easily and perhaps better done as a single pitch route.
P1) Climb past 4 bolts on smears and edges to a bolted anchor. P2) One more bolt will see you to the top, bolted anchor on top. To descend: walk off down slabs on the northwest side of the formation (climber's left) or rap the route with a single 60M rope in two raps. Make sure to use a 60 meter rope or longer!
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Nov 28, 2002
another funroute. seems a little harder than 5.9
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 7, 2003 rating: 5.9
Edgy first pitch and run-out second to a wonderful summit.
Unfortunately a lot of people seem to rap off after the first pitch, evidenced by a large number of slings which I once removed from the bolt anchor at pitch 1.
A worthy, albeit harder, companion to Mental Physics.
As previously mentioned it is possible and even recommended to do this route in one pitch. There should not be any slings left behind as the anchors are all metal hardware.
I'd give the route a 5.10a. I remember it being quite a bit harder than the advertised 5.9. Maybe it is just the space between bolts. I think I only climbed the first pitch and came down.
I think the reason this climb feels harder than 5.9 to some is that (in my opinion) the difficulty stays pretty consistant in the first pitch right off the deck with potential for some nice size falls that someone climbing at or near their current limit will certainly take seriously. Becasue the moves are all there and solid, this factor should make the movement of this climb quite enjoyable for those who comfortably lead at this grade (at Josh) and add to the feeling of adventure for those pushing their limits. The route also rises steeply in an upper section (P1) setting it apart from many low angle slabs whos' sloping character can hide the exposure and the feeling of being runout--something I think very much adds to the route'
I loved this route. I just TRed the first pitch but the movements were so much fun once I figured them out. The crux seemed to be near the first bolt. Gotta trust the JTree friction.
Lenticular Dome
RSS Feed
