This climb takes the striking crack on the left side of the formation's east face and is a definite must do for the grade.
The start is a somewhat bouldery move into a thin crack that slowly widens throughout the length of the climb. Those not well-versed in wider cracks may desire something larger than suggested to protect the upper section. The climb ends on a nice ledge with anchors, which give quick and easy access back to your packs.
Continuous and varied, this splitter is one that should be on your list of climbs to do at this grade - you won't be dissapointed.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 13, 2004 rating: 5.9
There are two cruxes, the bottom, and then again passing the line where the flake on the right "squeezes" the crack line. The wide moves up top are #3.5 to #4 camalot, but are probably only 5.7 and get progressively easier to the top, as the angle kicks back. Nice fun 5.9.
a big red (number 5) friend protects the top well, while small nuts (or aliens) protect the start; bring lots hands and fist-sized cams for the middle section.