This route heads up the obvious long crack system on the right side of Surprise Rock. Don't let the name disuade you from climbing this route. Other than a few loose flakes at the bottom, the route is quite clean and long.
A few hard moves near the bottom lead to fairly straightforward climbing in the middle of the pitch. However, near the top, where the crack disappears, the climbing is both well protected and challenging.
Protection
Good variety from 0.25 to 2.5 inches. Two bolt anchor. Rap off from Trembling Toes anchor to the left.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 7, 2005 rating: 5.9
This was a really enjoyable climb with good rock, bomber gear and varied moves in a cool location. The crux comes at the end where face moves off your gear reach the belay ledge. Memorable enough to warrant three stars out of five IMO.
The grain at the bottom leaves something to be desired, but it improves with height. I thought the exit moves were cranking a bit for 5.9, but I'll blame it on uncomfortable shoes.
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