The is a great route to climb while passing by on the Wonderland trail. For a bolted line at this grade and height, it can't easily be beat by J-Tree standards. The bolts have all been replaced (except for the first) recently to 3/8" and are spaced well. The rock is a bit loose due to lack of traffic so tred carefully. Be careful: on the last quarter of the climb, the route moves to the left... start this process early and avoid (what I did) climbing up a wonderful flake that turns evil at the end where it's thin and loose making it hard to move back to the left to clip. You'll find the crux to be the final 3 bolts. Enjoy!
Protection
All ya need on this one is 9 QDs and you'll find a 2 bolt rap anchor at the top. Two ropes are helpful for getting down.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 6, 2005 rating: 5.9
Well-protected and enjoyable climbing with very little to no traffic makes this a nice quick hit when heading in or out of the Wonderland. Easily rapped with a 60 meter rope as the initial apron is very low-angled and easy. Two stars out of five.
The crux section near the top is contrived as the natural line would have been to either head straight up or traverse left and up arete. Last 2 bolts are placed between these two options, forcing one onto harder ground. A fairly long and worthwhile route. Particularly when combined with Dirty Surprise, which is also quite good.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 7, 2005 rating: 5.9
When replacing the bolts on this route I contemplated moving some of the bolts to better locations but ultimately decided to leave them where they were. Contrived yes, but not too unpleasant.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 8, 2005 rating: 5.9
One of the routes i climbed early on, cuz it was "overbolted." Crumbly rock at that time ('90).
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