Fun slab climbing past 5-6 bolts lead to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. One bolt on first pitch added by subsequent party without permission of FA party. From the ledge chose one of the three 5.8 finish cracks. This route languished for years with one bolt and a sun-bleached sling. I have no idea who started it (Houser,...Laeger?).
Protection
The first pitch is protected by bolts, the second required a small standard rack to 3".
Sorry to hear about retrobolting of this route; it was a bit sporty before. An excellent climb for the grade. 2nd pitch is definitely runnout, though only 5.8.
By Chris Miller Administrator Nov 24, 2003 rating: 5.10a
I replaced the existing bolts (hangers were painted blue) and anchor in 1998 or so and at that time there were only 5 bolts on the route. The new bolt must have been added since then...shame as this was a great route for those solid at the grade. Dave - Next time out I'll remove the extra bolt.
dont go choppin bolts on this route, i dont think one was added. i think dave cant remember how many bolts were up there. who said a bolt was added? this thing about bolt choppin is a pandoras box, people read about bolt choppin and think its the thing to do, it is a very destructive activity that is enviromental terrorism, 9 outta 10 times the bolt gets replaced. most bolt chopping is the result of runaway egos, and the chance for the bullies to be a-holes.
Somebody, who shall remain nameless, told me they added a bolt up high where it was a bit runout on 5.8. Maybe he was just trying to get a rise out of me! I did paint my hangers blue back then, so, if all the bolts replaced by Chris were blue, maybe none were added.
I agree 100% with Todd Gordon on the "Bolt chopping" point he recently made. If a bolt bugs you, simply don't clip it! And for those that favor safty over ego, clip and go have fun. Me? I do both depending on mood, climb and if I am constipated! Nothing like having to take a "Big one" that's stuck to throw your focus out of whack.
If a bolt was added to this route (and not by DE or Margy) it should be removed (not "chopped") and the hole patched. I am not in favor of bolt chopping wars, but what gives the right for anyone to arbitrarily add bolts (this is different than replacing old bolts) to a route that has been around for nearly 20 years and seen several hundred ascents?
Once you justify this type of behavior, where do you stop; with bolts every 4 feet, so even the most timid of gym climbers can "lead" it? Maybe Stichter Quits should have a few more bolts too, notwithstanding the fact that literally thousands of other climbers have climbed it "safely" for 30+ years.
I know Todd has retro bolted some of his old routes, and more power to him. But DE has a right to be pissed if someone retro'd this route. It is a trad climb, not a sport route. Lets not justify bringing every route down to the lowest common denominator.
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