Caught Inside On A Big Set 

Here is a little fresh beta:

Gear for anchor on first pitch 1” to 4”.
Gear for anchor on second pitch 0.5” to 4”

I found the second pitch of the climb enjoyable - nice hand crack. The downclimb from the top of the first pitch looked very unappealing. 5.6? I think most parties will prefer to do both pitches and should be prepared to do so unless you don’t mind a 5.6 downclimb.

Descent: Take a look at the topo for D. Dome. There is a bolted anchor for one of the climbs on it that you may be able to get at. We did not see it, and the following is what we did. After you top out on the second pitch head left and look for a medium size tree near the edge with some slings on it. We cut off all the junk on it and replaced it with two red cordalettes in Dec 05. One rope rap. Once you are down, if you are facing the wall you rapped down, head right a bit. You will come to a gully choked with some giant boulders and you should be able to see the anchor bolts and slings for Book of Changes off to the left. I am told this is a one rope rap with a 60 meter rope. Alternatively, we went right and scrambled down a 4th class gully that had plenty of loose rock to make things interesting. Once u get past that u are home free. I think the descent sucks.

we did the descent as described above, but instead of the gully (which we didnt know about), we rapped Book of Changes with a single 60m.

good fun, but be careful on the descent, that little boulder gully presents some interesting challenges!