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The Red Obelisk
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Red Obelisk (aka Boogers On A Lampshade), The 

The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers On A Lampshade) 

5.10b

   

FA: Dave Evans and Marge Floyd, 1985
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 147 page views

Submitted By: Craig Clarence on Mar 9, 2003


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Kalle Cook nears the top. Photo taken from across...


Description 

This route climbs the right side of the west face of the Obelisk (it's the dashed line in the picture). A nice fat bolt has taken the place of a nest of knifeblades which once protected the crux. The start is a bit bouldery, with an unprotected mantel onto a sloping ledge, but it's not too hard.

The route ends with typical grainy Josh slab, and I was happy I took the time to sling the chickenhead above the 2nd bolt.

Short route, fun moves - definitely worth doing.


Protection 

2 bolts, anchors. A sling for a chickenhead is very helpful as well.



Photos of The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers On A Lampshade) Slideshow Add Photo
photo by Sue Hopkins

photo by Sue Hopkins

west face

BETA PHOTO: west face

Mike standing on the chickenhead contemplating the slopey topout.

Mike standing on the chickenhead contemplating the...


Comments on The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers On A Lampshade) Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Mar 18, 2003
rating: 5.10b

I agree; worth doing. Quite a nervy move stepping off the ledge and laying up past the crux, feels bigger than it is. Rappel off from bolts.

By David Evans
May 15, 2003

We did a Needles rappel on the FA. I sagged off one side while Margy rapped the other, then she tied off the rope and I rapped my side.

By Ryan Avery
Apr 4, 2005

I enjoyed this one. A way better lead for the expereince I think, but then I have only led it. Like mentioned above its a bit interesting stepping off the ledge into the crux. Definitely worth the hike.

Bring a couple quickdraws and a sling for the chicken head. Thats all you need so its a light and fast one.

By Murf
Nov 7, 2005

Graham - Crop out the Belayer and center a bit and I think you'd have a 3 * shot!

By Bo Johnston
Oct 19, 2006

The crux at the first bolt is stiff. I'm really glad there is a bolt there now. Making that move with a piton in that seam with serious fall potential would have put my tail between my legs... I wouldn't want to reverse the mantle move either!