WW examining the sequence onto the grainy slab fro...
Description
Scramble up to the upper right end of a large fallen block below (and once part of) the large roof on the middle formation.
Cruxy face (5.10c/d) past 2 bolts (1st may be doubled) next to an arete lead to the dike of I Can't Believe Its A Girdle. Head left (clip 3 bolts; but maybe unclip the 1st and runner the 2nd). Then head straight up on classic Josh friction (5.10c) past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay.
Though you can rap from here with 2 ropes, the rope drag (pulling the ropes) can be pretty bad.
Protection
8 bolts (1st bolt may be doubled) protect this route; 3 of which are actually on the 3rd pitch of I Can't Believe Its A Girdle. If you clip all the bolts and/or do not put longer runners on some, hideous rope drag will curse your ascent.
Pro is good, but some people get intimidated by the mantle/high step onto the dike above the 2nd bolt.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 25, 2005 rating: 5.10d
A seldom done and worthy obscurity. Balancy moves up the arete lead to an exciting mantle onto the dike - you don't want to blow that move. The upper face seems unlikely but goes at a reasonable grade (more traffic would help to clean this portion of the route). Two and a half stars out of three (three if it cleans up).
Freak Brothers Dome
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