This 4 pitch route provides an excellent excercise in traversing along a thin dike that runs about mid-height through all three sections of the formation. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are scarier for the second than the leader. The route was put up over a number of years, with the 1st pitch being the last one established.
Pitch 1: (5.10b) Start off a small ledge near the left end of the west face, (near a small Yucca). Tricky and thin face moves up and left (5.10b), past a bolt, then straight up past 3 more bolts and a horizontal (medium cam) to a bolt belay on the left end of the dike. (You can traverse in from the left onto the dike to the belay -- avoiding 1st pitch -- as was done on the first ascent of the 2nd pitch).
Pitch 2: (5.9++; Scary for 2nd) Follow the dike right (3 bolts) all the way to a 2 bolt belay in a recess. Second should avoid falling after unclipping from the bolt protecting the crux -- it would be a long swing. From the end of this pitch, you can escape up easy cracks (5.6).
Pitch 3: (5.9) Keep heading right (above dike), then downclimb onto the dike, which at this point actually forms the lip of a very large roof. Well protected (but airy) moves lead to another recess and bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: (5.7) A last traversing pitch, past a single bolt (and optional gear) leads to easy climbing up to a large ledge. Scramble down right to the ground.
Protection
1st Pitch: 4 bolts, medium cams; bolt anchor; 2nd Pitch: 3 bolts, bolt anchor; 3rd Pitch: 6 bolts, bolt anchor; 4th Pitch: 1 bolt, medium cams for belay
I love this route. Even if I hadn't had a little to do with its development I would still think it worthy of 3 stars. Now that Randy has put up the 1st pitch I will just have to go back and do it again. This is a fun an exciting route with spicy exposure for both the leader and the second. "I can't believe it's a girdle" has had an interesting multi-year development and has had photos featured in two black diamond catalogs. Someone out there must have some postable pics of this unusual and enjoyable route. Do yourselves a favor give this girdle traverse a go. Thank you Randy for posting it.
Feels like an adventure. One of the most fun routes I've done at Josh.
By Chris Miller Administrator Dec 18, 2003 rating: 5.10a
A unique adventure with adequate protection where you need it - don't get on this route if just breaking into the grade. This route is made for all those people who frequent Gunsmoke. Fun climbing with exciting moves and excellent positioning. Five stars out of five - why not.
We did it a few days ago, nothing obvious had fallen off and it's definitely nowhere near 5.11, but I think it is a little sandbagged at .10a. The move past the first bolt on P1 was a tenuous eye opener.
Anchor info is incorrect. The first 3 belays are bolted, only P4 requires a gear anchor (fingers to hands, or go way back to a pinch). The photos in the description actually show p3, not p2. P4 is much easier than the others, but you may want to take a #0.5 or #1 camalot for a flaring crack just after stepping across.
Spicy is right! Have the ropegun leading the odd pitches.
Freak Brothers Dome
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