Dangling Woo Li Master 

The route is pretty good, despite a few questionable holds down in the redish area of the climb prior to the crux. The crux sequence pro is a large cam (3.5") overhead to make a move and then a 2.5" piece which you pass just as you step left out ofthe crux sequence. These will seem a little lower than they are due to the long slings you will use to save rope drag.

Don't presume that this is a great route for the second to push their grade on- the belay is not really comforatable and also the route overhangs anough to call it "Dangling 5.9 Master." To avoid dangling, it is better to be a 5.10 master. It might be hard to protect the swing from the crux for the second and leave them in a tough spot to get back on the route.

The belay up top is a single bolt plus a good 3" piece. If you ask me, one hex or one cam will do top back up the bolt. Note that descent is to scramble up and 30 feet over to the climber's right side to reach an anchor where a single 60 M rope will just reach the ground. A 70M rope leaves plenty to spare.

5.10a seems about right grade J-tree.

The mid point of the climb / stemming crux stuff is can be protected pretty well with 1.5" gear, in a horizontal then above in a tight hand crack in the corner. There is also a horn you could sling and hang a truck from.

It is also easy to walk off from this climb, up and right 20' then back following the slabs gently down, then down a 4' step into a gully, then left down the gully and around to your packs at the bottom.

I agree this is not a great climb for a fledgling 5.10 climber, particularly on lead :)

to be totally honest i didnt enjoy this route as much as i thought i was going to, im not sure if it deserves all those stars. it wasnt a bad route but not an absolute classic one star for the climb and another for the location.

Gear beta: a #3.5 or 4 Camalot is a good idea for protecting the stemming crux. Someone mentioned that you can protect it with a 1.5" piece, but in order to get that piece in, you've already had to get high in the stem, so I don't think that is good beta. My rack would be: a #4, two or three #3s, two #2s, a 0.75, a 0.5, a couple of nuts down low, and long slings for down low and tying off a couple of horns.

Felt harder than 10a to me, even for JTree, and even on toprope. I thought it was harder than "Caught Inside on a Big Set" or whatever that 10b to the right is.

Fun route. It's the route I keep thinking about from my last trip to J Tree.

interestingly, i found this to be tougher than the other two .10b's in the grotto- even thought i was on TR at the time. it's good fun, though, and the crux is even more so.

btw- i didnt notice a bolt up top, but again, i wasn't the leader.

Great route; worth the hike.