Willard 

Willard was fun. If you find the couple of runouts intimidating, they both protect easily with small tricams (0.5 through 1.5, or pink through brown).

I was not particularly motivated to climb the short, much easier second pitch; the rappel descent from the first pitch anchors is quite convenient. (And yes, they are rappel anchors, not just bolt hangers.)

I agree. this is a fun route. we didn't do the second pitch of Willard, but finished off in the upper portion of Last Angry Arab.

We did the second pitch of this route above the chains. To get off from the top go right off the back and down to a yucca with slings and a taped biner. From the tree its 100' to scrambling terrain down a chimney/gully.

To get off the dome, go to the top of the dome to a gully.you will see a gully tending to the right. downclimb this to a ledge. look to the right side if this ledge. there is a two bolt rap anchor. at least there was last year. you will need two ropes to rap.

Fun climb! A yellow alien can be placed in the angling crack before the first bolt for piece of mind. The route is a bit run but shouldn't be a big issue. We didn't climb the second pitch (mainly 'cause of the hassle to get down) but the flake above to the last bolt looks like easy but fun climbing.