Ben 

The anchor atop this route is the same as the pro; 2 smash-in type bolts. One of them is a spinner. The other looks solid. We found one sling with one end each tied to a respective bolt with a 3/8" welded ring. My partner retied the sling so each was a separate loop. If you plan to rap from these anchors you might want to take a couple of slings and some new rap rings. Of course, then your ropes (you'll need two) will end up in the giant prickly pear arrangement at the bottom.

I'd say the crux is the edging to get up to the little roof. Pulling the roof wasn't so bad with a good undercling and a hold to the left to pull on. These bolts are not really cutting it. I think the innitials DPH were stamped on them. Oh, as for the rappel. I rapped to the right chain anchors atop Willard to get down. One rope for sure.

These bolts (and hangers) are the original 1/4 inchers placed on the FA. The hangers were homemade aluminum jobs made by Dave Houser ("DPH"). These used to be found on all sorts of his routes in the Park, but have been mostly replaced over the years. The problem with these hangers is that they deform (as a result of falls) over time, until they break without warning.

Hey Randy, I kinda like seeing old bolts and finding out their history but in a fall... Anyhow, in the '92 publication, Ben is rated 10a on the Nomad page and 10b in the index of the book. Which one did you mean or what will it be in the new book?