This excellent route, one of the few at the Astro Domes that isn't all face climbing, is located on the far right side of the South Astro Dome just right of Such A Savage (5.11a R). Two vastly different and thoroughly enjoyable pitches will get you high above the desert floor, providing far reaching views of the Wonderland Of Rocks and beyond.
P1) Climb a short hand/fist crack to a small ledge and then jam the somewhat awkward hand crack above (5.8) until plentiful face holds appear and lead you up and right along a ramp system to a bolted anchor in a large hueco. P2) Stem your way out of the belay hueco and then continue up and right to the second bolt. Climb out left and up along a faint dike system and then wander up to the last bolt where a quick bit of friction gains the top and a two bolt anchor/rap. Descend the route in two single rope raps with a 60 meter rope.
Originally the second pitch had a single bolt (the middle one) which made it very runout, but the FA party agreed to allow a few extra bolts to be added to make it enjoyable for all.
Protection
Pro to 3" for the first pitch and 3 bolts for the second pitch. The belays are bolted and all bolts are 3/8".
This is a great climb. Two completely different pitches that serve up JTree climbing at it's best. Starts with a sweet hand crack to face climbing with nice incuts. The upper pitch involves textbook runout slab climbing. And then enjoy panoramic views from the top of the south Astrodome.
The Astro Domes - South
RSS Feed
