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The Astro Domes - South
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Bleed Between the Lines 
Breakfast of Champions 
Hex Marks The Poot 
Middle Age Savage 
My Laundry 
Piggle Pugg 
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Solid Gold 
Such A Savage 
Such A Waste 
Walking Pneumonia 

Such A Savage 

5.11a R

   

FA: Spencer Lennard and Craig Fry, November 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 170 feet
Views: 724 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2002


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Brian Smith is cruising after making the run to th...


Description 

Yet another of the classic face routes on the Astro Domes, this one is memorable for a stiff runout to the first bolt as well as the steep, well-protected face climbing higher.

Start 70' right of Solid Gold and 15' left of Breakfast of Champions (obvious flake/crack system) at a smooth apron of rock.

P1) Climb about 20' of insecure 5.10 friction above the talus to a bolt, run it out again to a second bolt (this feels much easier) and continue to a ledge above which the wall steepens to vertical. Four more bolts along a bolt ladder (some clips are awkward) take you to a bolted belay.

P2) Leave the belay and climb featured vertical face with interesting moves past four bolts to the top and another bolted anchor.

Descend by walking off around the back or rapping down any of several routes (Breakfast Of Champions or Shooting Star).


Protection 

All bolts with bolted belays(3/8") Be aware that the start of the climb is very runout.



Add Comment Comments on Such A Savage
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By Steven Powers
Aug 29, 2004

I recommend the start further left of the original line as it's more direct and much safer, the only difference is you miss out of some good runout friction climbing.

By Tyler Logan
From: Running Springs
Apr 22, 2006

Be sure to make a right at the fifth bolt on this route, as there is a newer line (.12c?) that continues straight up at this point and it is VERY easy to get suckered into following it.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Mar 1, 2007

The newer route is called Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b).