BETA PHOTO: Lenticular Dome. Mental Physics is the crack in the...
Description
The Lenticular Dome is a good looking piece of rock (as far as rocks go). Far and away the most sought-after route here is Mental Physics, which has been called the best 5.7 in the country. While I can't attest to that, it sure is a lot of fun! While you're waiting in line for Mental Physics, try Dazed And Confused, a 5.9 (R-) bolted face just a few feet to the left.
Getting There
From Barker Dam parking area, hike due north until you reach the Don Juan Boulder (a GIANT boulder in the middle of the wash). You will see the Astro Domes to the west. Just beyond, continue NW through a wash until directly under the Lenticular Dome, which will be on the right (north). Look for climbers' trail and scramble (3rd class) up to the base of the rock. Approach time - 30 minutes.
One may also approach from "Uncle Willie's Health Food Store" (Vogel guide, p. 281). Don't get your hopes up - the "Store" consists of a concrete foundation and not much else. Head north past Ash Gordon and Bankrupt Wall to the Don Juan Boulder. Continue as above.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lenticular Dome:
What a fun route! So much fun in fact that there was an entire institute established in Yucca Valley where all they do is sit around all day and talk about how great a route it is (and if you believe that...). But seriously, Mental Physics one of those routes you can climb again and again.P1: Climb 120' of sweet jamming to 3-bolt anchor (2 of which are good, one is old). Either rap from here with 1 60-m rope and a bit of downclimbing, or conti...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
The first pitch is about 32 meters long, which means that if you have a 60 meter rope you could rappel off if you were willing to down climb the last bit. We chose to do the second pitch, which Charlie Winger called "unaesthetic". It's actually an okay pitch, but one might find fault with the fact that the first and only bolt is a long way from the belay. The walk off is pretty straightforward and safe but rather tedious.
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