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Astro Dome - South

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Bleed Between the Lines 
Breakfast of Champions 
Hex Marks The Poot 
Middle Age Crazy 
Middle Age Savage 
My Laundry 
Piggle Pugg 
Shooting Star 
Solid Gold 
Such a Savage 
Such a Waste 
Walking Pneumonia 

Astro Dome - South

Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jun 26, 2002
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse
Elevation: 4,400 feet
Views: 7,031 page views

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South Astro Dome


Description 

These awesome domes lie in the heart of the Wonderland of Rocks and sport some of the longest routes in the park. Classics include Solid Gold (10a) and Such a Savage (11a). The climbing is characterized by steep face climbing on small edges protected by bolts. Remember though, that these climbs were put up in the days of the bolt-on-lead ethic, and ARE NOT SPORT CLIMBS. Just because these routes aren't given an "R" (by tradition) doesn't mean you won't encounter significant runouts with dangerous fall potential: a small rack is usually useful to supplement the fixed gear on these routes. The majority of the routes on these domes face northeast and thus can be quite cold in the winter and see little sun. That being said a warm day in January brings ideal climbing conditions if you don't mind being a little chilly.

The South Astro Dome can be descended by 2 rappels from the top of My Laundry (one 60 ft and one 90 ft).


Getting There 

Directions are difficult in the Wonderland. It is best to bring a good map to help locate the Astro Domes.

From the Barker Dam parking area, follow the trail north towards the Dam. When you reach the lakebed, continue north through the lakebed (if dry) or cross at the dam. Continue north through the Wonderland until you reach the enormous Don Juan Boulder. At this point veer towards the South Astro Dome and clamber up slabs to a notch which provides an excellent vantage point of the walls. Descend to the route of choice.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Astro Dome - South:
Hex Marks The Poot   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet   
Breakfast of Champions   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
Solid Gold   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Piggle Pugg   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Such a Savage   5.11a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
Browse More Classics in Astro Dome - South

Featured Route For Astro Dome - South
Dave finishing first pitch

Breakfast of Champions 5.8+  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Astro Dome - South
This excellent route, one of the few at the Astro Domes that isn't all face climbing, is located on the far right side of the South Astro Dome just right of Such a Savage (5.11a R). Two vastly different and thoroughly enjoyable pitches will get you high above the desert floor, providing far reaching views of the Wonderland Of Rocks and beyond. P1) Climb a short hand/fist crack to a small ledge and then jam the somewhat awkward hand crack above (5...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Astro Dome - South Slideshow Add Photo
Capri Slacks points out the Don Juan boulder. An easy to miss landmark in Wondervalley

BETA PHOTO: Capri Slacks points out the Don Juan boulder. An e...


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By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 11, 2003

"Mr. Lizard Meets Flintstone" (5.6): All 5 protection bolts replaced. ASCA 2/02

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 11, 2003

From the ASCA:"Strike It Rich" - All three protection bolts replaced. Note that instead of traversing way left to belay at the top of the first pitch, you can now traverse only about 10' right to get to the bolted belay of a new route to the right. Both pitches can be linked (just barely) with a 60m rope, but severe rope drag is a risk. ASCA 1/02