These awesome domes lie in the heart of the Wonderland of Rocks and sport some of the longest routes in the park. Classics include Solid Gold (10a) and Such A Savage (11a). The climbing is characterized by steep face climbing on small edges protected by bolts. Remember though, that these climbs were put up in the days of the bolt-on-lead ethic, and ARE NOT SPORT CLIMBS. Just because these routes aren't given an "R" (by tradition) doesn't mean you won't encounter significant runouts with dangerous fall potential: a small rack is usually useful to supplement the fixed gear on these routes. The majority of the routes on these domes face northeast and thus can be quite cold in the winter and see little sun. That being said a warm day in January brings ideal climbing conditions if you don't mind being a little chilly.
The South Astro Dome can be descended by 2 rappels from the top of My Laundry (one 60 ft and one 90 ft).
Getting There
Directions are difficult in the Wonderland. It is best to bring a good map to help locate the Astro Domes.
From the Barker Dam parking area, follow the trail north towards the Dam. When you reach the lakebed, continue north through the lakebed (if dry) or cross at the dam. Continue north through the Wonderland until you reach the enormous Don Juan Boulder. At this point veer towards the South Astro Dome and clamber up slabs to a notch which provides an excellent vantage point of the walls. Descend to the route of choice.
Yet another of the classic face routes on the Astro Domes, this one is memorable for a stiff runout to the first bolt as well as the steep, well-protected face climbing higher. Start 70' right of Solid Gold and 15' left of Breakfast of Champions (obvious flake/crack system) at a smooth apron of rock.P1) Climb about 20' of insecure 5.10 friction above the talus to a bolt, run it out again to a second bolt (this feels much easier) and continue to a ledg...[more]
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 11, 2003
From the ASCA:"Strike It Rich" - All three protection bolts replaced. Note that instead of traversing way left to belay at the top of the first pitch, you can now traverse only about 10' right to get to the bolted belay of a new route to the right. Both pitches can be linked (just barely) with a 60m rope, but severe rope drag is a risk. ASCA 1/02
The Astro Domes - South
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
