Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).
Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.
Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.
Classic route in a secluded setting.
Protection
Very small cams to 3.5", doubles for 1/4" to 2", small to medium stoppers. Two bolt (1/4") anchor at top of pitch #1. Small to medium cams for anchor at end of pitch #2. Two bolt (1/4" buttonheads) anchor at end of pitch #3. Two rappels to the ground.
The first pitch used to be 5.11a. But a number of years ago, part of the "lip" of the thin crack broke off making the face moves down and right much harder. very few people have done the 3rd pitch.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 13, 2006 rating: 5.11d
Several years after the 1974 FFA, a gentleman named Charlie Fowler on-sight soloed this route. Imagine that...
The crux move on the first pitch is pretty fecking hard. I've climbed other 11d and 12a routes in the park and this seemed really stout. I think a longer wingspan would make the move significantly easier (seems to me like another 3 inches would have made a world of difference).
The bottom third of the first pitch is pretty rotten, even by Josh standards, compromising the five-star rating in my book. Still, well worth the hike, if only to get away from the crowds. Big props to Charlie (RIP) for on-sight soloing this thing.
Things start to clean up right at the crux. The above beta for a #00 TCU or equivalent is right on (I think a #4 BD Stopper fit just below that).
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: Cheyenne,Wyoming Feb 18, 2008 rating: 5.11d
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