It is 30' right of Baby Roof, just left of an orange dihedral (Houdini Arete), and about 100 yards up from the desert floor. A great hand crack at the bottom with fun traversing with some exposure at the top. This is a great climb to practice hand crack technique, especially the first 25 feet.
Protection
Standard rack up to Camalot 3.5. Depending on your crack technique, you may want doubles of the hand size pieces for the bottom hand crack.
1/5 stars for me, almost a bomb. Not the greatest rock, not terribly sustained, lots of rope drag potential and (for me) not terribly interesting. I was disappointed w/ this one but not a total bomb either.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 13, 2006 rating: 5.10a
I thought this was pretty fun - nice hand crack at the bottom, and a fun move getting into and around the roof (a crimp on the right edge of the roof makes it lots easier to get a left hand up and into a layback). Short but sweet.
Bottom is very nice and turning the roof is "unique". My partner, who'd previously done this route many years ago, believes something has broken off just above the roof. Only place I can ever recall liebacking off both knees at once...and feeling like that was the best way to climb the sequence (my partner did the same thing, and I laughed until I got there). Not a mega classic, but worthwhile and one of the better in the area.
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