Fresh Squeezed 

FA:  Bob & Yvonne Gaines 2001 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 117 page views Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Fresh Squeezed (5.10a) goes up the right side of t...

Description 

Located just to the right of Tender Flakes Of Wrath and Sunny Delight on the southwest corner of Reggie Dome.

Start amongst boulders and climb a curving crack up and right to the point where it becomes a horizontal (2.5" pro here), then make an easy but committing move to reach the first bolt. Steep slab climbing (5.9) with positive edges continues up and right until a stance is reached below a short headwall. Steep, well-protected moves on incut patina edges lead up and left out the headwall (crux), finishing with some slabby moves on slightly gritty rock.

The anchor on top is set well back from the edge and thus requires a walk off. To descend head east and then back west along a series of ledges, pass a dubious-looking block, downclimbing a chimney to finish.

A fun and well-protected route that is ideal on cold days as well as escaping the crowds typical of more popular walls. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

7 bolts (all 3/8"), anchors (5/16"), a 2.5" piece for before the first bolt