Fresh Squeezed 

FA:  Bob & Yvonne Gaines, 2001 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 222 page views Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Fresh Squeezed (5.10a) goes up the right side of t...

Description 

Start amongst boulders and climb a curving crack up and right to the point where it becomes a horizontal (2.5" pro here), then make an easy but committing move to reach the first bolt. Steep slab climbing (5.9) with positive edges continues up and right until a stance is reached below a short headwall. Steep, well-protected moves on incut patina edges lead up and left out the headwall (crux), finishing with some slabby moves on slightly gritty rock.

The anchor on top is set well back from the edge and may require a walk off if long slings aren't in place. To descend head east and then back west along a series of ledges, pass a dubious-looking block and finish by downclimbing an easy chimney.

A fun and well-protected route that is ideal on cold days as well as escaping the crowds typical of more popular walls. Two stars out of five.

Location 

Located just to the right of Tender Flakes of Wrath and Sunny Delight on the southwest corner of Reggie Dome.

Protection 

7 bolts (all 3/8"), anchors (5/16"), a 2.5" piece for before the first bolt