BETA PHOTO: "Pops Goes Hawaiian". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This route is on the northwest face of Reggie Dome and climbs the prominent dike system immediately left of The Chief.
A bouldery start gains access to the "staircased" dike and a solitary bolt about 15' above the start. Higher, the dike dies out briefly and wild moves around a flake give access to the upper portion of the dike which ends at the same spot The Chief does.
There are two options for descending this route (and The Chief) - scrambling down an easy gully to the north or by rappelling from anchors (95' rap) atop the large slab just left of this route. A fun route that offers better protection than appearances might first suggest, this is a worthwhile route to do when in the vicinty. Two stars out of five.
I really liked this route. It does feel a little tenuous before the first clip and the flake above is loose and isn't worth putting anything in considering the climbing gets quite easy once you reach it. 2 stars!
Sweet route. Felt pretty casual to the bolt but got a little vibratory motion in my right foot when trying to move up and over the little headwall. Found a place for a small alien to steady it.
There is another way down from this climb. Walk to the south across the summit boulders to the very southwest corner of the top of the formation. There's pair of button-heads here, one with a spinner hanger, but I rapped off them on Sunday and they were fine. 70' to the ground.
Oh, and the old guide from Bartlett rates this a 5.7/8 PG. Vogel doesn't even give it a PG. Call it what you will, if you fall on your way to the first bolt, your day is going to end poorly.
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