BETA PHOTO: Yasmine Bleeth climbs the left side of the light-c...
Description
Begin on the left side of the middle buttress, left of Dos Chi Chis (5.10a), on a small ledge. Make some exposed moves up to the 1st bolt (easier and less exposed to the right) and then work your way upwards in a left-trending fashion to a cruxy section past the 5th bolt. The moves past the 5th bolt are a little thinner and somewhat loose as well, but they soon give way to solid rock and stellar moves over a small roof. Above the roof a short section of enjoyable face climbing leads to a 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Dos Chi Chis).
Rap off from the anchor (90') or continue up Dos Chi Chis past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge system. Rap off from here (2 single rope raps w/ a 60 meter rope) or continue past 5 more bolts (5.10a) to the top of the formation. Descend from the top of the formation in 3 single rope raps (see the Dos Chi Chis page for more detailed information).
This is a well-protected climb with engaging moves on quality rock. There's some loose rock on the route, but that should clean up in time and make this even more enjoyable. Three stars out of five (four if you go to the summit).
This is a 1 pitch route that ends at the 2 bolt belay/rap anchor near the top of the 1st pitch of Dos Chi Chis. At that point you can either rap/lower or continue up Dos Chi Chis.
It has some loose flakes and at one point the logical climbing strays a bit right of where the bolts would indicate. A obvious route to do after climbing Dos Chi Chis.
Did this one also today and still find it harder than DosChichis........I see where Randy has it the other way around. It perhaps is a height thing. Some of the loose flakes have broken off and there are more to come. I actually almost rated DosChichis as 5.8 but did not want to cause a stir...oh well..........do it for yourself and enjoy! Both are really fun........
An enjoyable route. If you climb this and Dos Chichis, one after the other, I believe you'll notice a significant difference in difficulty: the second pitch of DCC is "at least" a point more difficult on the second pitch yet quite a few people rate both routes the same. Oh, well.
By Colin Parker From: Pasadena, CA May 26, 2009 rating: 5.9
Loved this route, along with everything else in Siberia. I found it a bit easier than dos chi chis. It seems that high-stepping is the solution to about every move on this one, but on a thin face, that's a lot of fun :-)
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