BETA PHOTO: Routes "Dos Chi Chi's and "yasmine Bleeth" lie bel...
Description
This high-quality two-pitch face climb is located on the right side of the south-facing, central buttress just right of Yasmine Bleeth (5.9).
P1) Climb steep slab (5.9+) with intermittent patina past 7 bolts and one fixed pin to an intermediate belay, clip the belay and climb past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge. P2) Climb up and left from the left side of the ledge to a vague arete past 5 bolts via insecure smears (5.10a) to the top of the formation.
Descend the route in 3 single rope raps with a 60 meter rope - one rap from the summit to the large ledge, another to the intermediate belay below the large ledge and one more to the base.
The well-protected climbing in a remote location makes this a highly recommended moderate route. While the climbing is good, the view from the top is unparalled and offers far-reaching views of the entire Wonderland, Saddle Rocks and the 29 Palms Marine Corps Base. Three, maybe four, stars out of five.
A fun 2 pitch outing that is sure to be one of the most popular routes of its rating in the Park once the new guide comes out. Lots of moderate and long sport routes here.
The best part about this and the other routes that end on the top of the formation is the view. One of the best views from any formation in the entire Park.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Feb 21, 2006
This is a fun route - long first pitch with one tricky move, crux on the second pitch, which is one 5.9+ move on a thin slab. IMHO there 2 too many bolts on this route - there's pro in the horizontal on the first pitch, and there's pro at the top of the second pitch. Hard to imagine ths route went ignored for so long.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jan 6, 2007
Chris, thanks for the single rope rap info for this route (and others)
As has been said, a fun climb with incredible views. Personally I think the location is better than the actual climbing.
With future popularity I would look for this route to become more difficult as those prescious little knobbies one steps up at the crux of P1 wear away. The rock on these faces is generally quite friable.
By Pete eye From: Palm Springs, CA Nov 26, 2009 rating: 5.9+
put your right foot on the left chi chi...and your good