Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Siberia
Show routes:
Select route...
A Bull With Gas 
Broken Dreams 
Cross-Roads Finish 
Dos Chi Chis 
Gandy 
George's Route (aka Binder) 
Love Gas 
Randy 
Toby 
Yasmine Bleeth 

Dos Chi Chis 

5.10a

   
3 people found this page useful

FA: Todd Gordon et al.
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 240 feet
Views: 1,167 page views

Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Routes "Dos Chi Chi's and "yasmine Bleeth" lie bel...


Description 

This high-quality two-pitch face climb is located on the right side of the south-facing, central buttress just right of Yasmine Bleeth (5.9).

P1) Climb steep slab (5.9+) with intermittent patina past 7 bolts and one fixed pin to an intermediate belay, clip the belay and climb past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge. P2) Climb up and left from the left side of the ledge to a vague arete past 5 bolts via insecure smears (5.10a) to the top of the formation.

Descend the route in 3 single rope raps with a 60 meter rope - one rap from the summit to the large ledge, another to the intermediate belay below the large ledge and one more to the base.

The well-protected climbing in a remote location makes this a highly recommended moderate route. While the climbing is good, the view from the top is unparalled and offers far-reaching views of the entire Wonderland, Saddle Rocks and the 29 Palms Marine Corps Base. Three, maybe four, stars out of five.


Protection 

P1) 9 bolts, one FP, 2 bolt anchor/rap; P2) 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")



Photos of Dos Chi Chis Slideshow Add Photo
Locker backing off Dos Chichis. He's never looked so handsome...

Locker backing off Dos Chichis. He's never looked ...

Topo of the route.

BETA PHOTO: Topo of the route.

Stefan Harms starting up Pitch 1

Stefan Harms starting up Pitch 1

Stefan at the crux of Pitch 1<br /><br /><a href='/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/wonderland_north/105724486'>Dos Chi Chis (5.10a)</a>

Stefan at the crux of Pitch 1

[[Dos Chi Chis (5.1...



Comments on Dos Chi Chis Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy
Oct 14, 2004
rating: 5.10a

A fun 2 pitch outing that is sure to be one of the most popular routes of its rating in the Park once the new guide comes out. Lots of moderate and long sport routes here.

The best part about this and the other routes that end on the top of the formation is the view. One of the best views from any formation in the entire Park.

A 3-4 star out of 5 route.

By Locker
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.9+

Lead this again today and it felt like 5.9 at best. It is a really fun route. Two 60m ropes for one rap..........

By Woody Stark
Oct 27, 2005
rating: 5.10a

A lot of fun and well protected.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Feb 21, 2006

This is a fun route - long first pitch with one tricky move, crux on the second pitch, which is one 5.9+ move on a thin slab. IMHO there 2 too many bolts on this route - there's pro in the horizontal on the first pitch, and there's pro at the top of the second pitch. Hard to imagine ths route went ignored for so long.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jan 6, 2007

Chris, thanks for the single rope rap info for this route (and others)

By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Feb 19, 2008

As has been said, a fun climb with incredible views. Personally I think the location is better than the actual climbing.

With future popularity I would look for this route to become more difficult as those prescious little knobbies one steps up at the crux of P1 wear away. The rock on these faces is generally quite friable.

By Pete eye
From: Palm Springs, CA
Nov 26, 2009
rating: 5.9+

put your right foot on the left chi chi...and your good