The Dunce Cap

BETA PHOTO: The impressive North Face of The Duncecap. Several...

Description 

The Dunce Cap is an impressive monolithic pluton in the eastern most reaches of the North Wonderland. The Dunce Cap (5.10c) is one of several recorded routes on this rock and potential for more FAs exists. The sheer north face, extending over 200' in height, consists of discontinuous cracks, extensive flake systems, a wide dihedral, and shallow depressions in undulating patterns. The southwest wall is only half as high as the north face but promising FAs are also present.

Getting There 

One approach to this crag is to follow the North Wonderland Trail which begins at Key's Corner through washes to the Willow Hole. Continue east over small boulders through a narrow drainage that eventually connects with a broad north - south wash that meanders into Rattlesnake Canyon. The Dunce Cap is about 1/4 mile south of this point and easy to distinguish by a large right-leaning pillar on its northeast side.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Dunce Cap

Spirited Away 5.11b PG13  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Dunce Cap

This route stands among the best in the entire Park. Bold, but adequately protected, the signature second pitch offers continuous climbing in a stellar position.Begin near the center of the North Face (right of center in photo), at the foot of the base of the rock, on the left side of a large rectangular block (in sunlight in photo). Pitch 1: Up cracks on the left side of the block to a very large flat ledge (5.8). Pitch 2: Move up and left to a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Dunce Cap Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The steep north face of the Dunce Cap

A look at Dunce Cap from the North Eastish.