The route is an obvious shallow corner which becomes a detached, hanging, thin, right- facing flake. It MIGHT be solid, but it doesn't look that way. Falling on cams behind it is a proposal of dubious wisdom, at best. Climb up on a few moderate moves in the shallow right-facing corner to reach the hanging flake. Move up onto this flake with jams and liebacks to reach the top (5.9) and move up through the first of two 'blank' bulges to reach a decent horizontal feature (10a) traverse left (5.7) here or pull a second roof (5.11?) and then traverse left (5.11?) to reach a weakness that leads to the top. Vogel's book depicts the 5.11 option I described and seems to be in error.
Once up top, move back to the North to clip the fixed anchor to belay. This is the rap anchor for the wall and can be extended to form a TR-point if desired.
Protection
Best top-roped. The flake system can be 'protected' with dubous cams that might just rip-out and drop this 20-ton hanging flake on you.
If you lead it, please don't fall, and be aware that the route as drawn on the topo is probably 5.11--- to keep this at 10a, follow the more obvious chalked traverse one roof lower than indicated.
Steve Canyon
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