2 or 3 stars, depending on how the route is done. FInishing left (as shown in topo) is easier and less fun. Finishing right adds a second crux and is more sustained, singular and fun. Either way, the climb is a reasonably long pitch for J-tree and is certainly safe and protectable and accessible.
This route is on the West Face of the West Side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail SPrings road. There are 2 sub-rocks here. The Northward of these is referred to as the Hot Tub, and the South as Watanobe Wall, which has a namesake route.
Watanobe Wall (the climb) is on the North end of the Watanobe Wall buttress and ascends a rather obvious, steep, right-leaning crack system. This climb abounds with 'knobs'... "what a nobby wall" indeed, but primarily for the upper half. Significant jamming skills are also employed. This area can be reached from the inside of Steve Canyon by picking your way past Tennis Shoe Crack and over the saddle close to the North end, with some easy 5th class down climbing (5.3 or loose your way and it will be 5.6). It can also be approached more easily from the road parking areas to the West.
Climb up and right in the initial crack for ~7M to reach a crux horizontal jam (#3 cam) and then pull up and right into the second crack in the system. Climb this stellar crack for ~9M more, then either go left (easier 5.8?) or continue in the same system to the right (better, 5.9, and more like the lower portion). Either way, you will take landing on the left or right side of a large attached boulder on a large sloping ledge. Climb up the left through horizontals, going well left where required, or to the right in wide crack (4" gear, but easy) to reach the top of the wall. Walk East ~7M to reach a fixed belay at the top of Tennis Shoe Crack.
Descend as down the rap on the E Face above tennis shoe crack Or Candellabra and walk SW or scramble SE back to the base.
Protection
A set of stoppers (maybe a few extras if you sew things up) and a set fo cams from 1-3" A few fist-sized pieces might go in up top.
On the hard side of 10a. All of our gang did Taxman, (as well as most other a's) cleanly but took a couple of trys on this one! A kneebar helps.
If you set a TR on it, place 2 or 3 pieces for directionals.It's an optical illusion that makes the crack look much more vertical than it is when viewed from below. You could end up swinging hard from the first crux into the corner on the right if you don't set it up correctly.
All in our party agreed this should be rated a 5.10b. The last time I climbed this was in 11-04 and it was not any easier this time even knowing what moves lied ahead. The initial start is this very clean under-cling where you delicately move under and into the upper crack. The crux begins when reaching the main crack. At the beginning of the right leaning crack is a rather large area, too large to fist jam, unless you are a giant. However, this area is an excellant placement for a #3 cam. The next moves are what I feel make this a 5.10b instead of an 10a. It is strenuous and reachy moving through this area, I had to arm bar this lower area until I was able to reach a tiny hold on the outside of the crack. The moves are unrelenting and dificult. As we all left this climb, we laughed and agreed it was a typical JT 10+....
If you are 6'3" or taller, the crux is trivial and the rest of the climbing no harder than 5.7. Similar in difficulty to Orphan. Not a "full value" pitch.....
There seems to be a trend starting that has many routes being upgraded to bigger numbers on routes that are pretty much the same. I feel this route is 5.10a and maybe even 5.9+ as Murf posted. To each their own. Ratings are relative.
Fun crux which is very hand size dependent. I've got big meat paws so I could fist jam the crux, where smaller hands may have a tougher time. Good stuff.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Nov 6, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Seems harder than other 5.10as imo, as the feet don't really give you much love for about 20-30 feet. Worthy route. A #3.5 or #4 camalot is handy at the crux if you're squimish like me.
Great fun route, take the right finish or you're cheating yourself.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Feb 16, 2007 rating: 5.10
Did the route for the first time as the last route of the day. My partner warned me the bottom might be difficult so I placed a #2 camalot, 1.5" DMM, and finally a 3.0 camalot in the vertical fist slot. Casual! Afterwards a stopper and 1" cam. I did use the left exit which according to comments here is the easier exit. Next time, I"m going right. Nice route - not sure what took me 15 years to do it. I'll be doing it again.
Done this route several times. I feel it has a fair rating of 10a. But of course if you hand is to small for that key fist jamb, it may feel harder. The fist jamb is key for me. When I first done it I put my 3.5 cam where my fist should be. Big mistake. I corrected that by putting it higher. Then made the move. I have done both exits at the top. Going straight up is my favorite.
Steve Canyon
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