Graham past the technical crux. "The roof isn't t...
Description
This classic route lies on the north end of the west face and requires, like a lot of Josh routes, to be adept at several styles of climbing.
A start past some horizontals gets you to a ledge with a left-leaning thin crack which thins and dies, with the crux being a balancy lieback past a bolt. Higher, easier moves lead to a stance below an impressive roof, which despite appearances from afar goes easily with a perfect hand crack splitting it.
Belay from gear (pro to 2.5") and walk off or use the anchors on the neighboring Rollercoaster and don't forget to set a directional piece for your follower.
A great route to do at least once every season, this route has a lot of fun moves packed into it's short length. Four stars out of five.
Indeed a great route. Maybe I was having a bad day but for me this route was harder than Clean and Jerk - perhaps comparable to Bearded Cabbage in overall difficulty?
Great climb, although short, with two fun cruxes. For me the technical crux (layback/weight shift near the bolt) was not as hard as the roof crux. This to me felt harder than the roof on Illusion Dweller. Just not very secure for my fat hands. I didn't think this route was as hard or as pumpy as C&J, though.
The route was perfect in all ways. I used two large cams under the roof to portect it. Did a sling v thing directional with a magic x. There is a definite sequence of hands. Oh! the little flake that protrude out from the line will catch the rope, watch it! I found this route much easier than Clean and Jerk. The quiet at Roller Ball is quite good place to concentrate, unlike Clean and Jerk.
Whoever placed the bolt on this is either way tall, or a moron (or both..or placed it on rappel without checking the clip stance). You have to commit to the technical liebacking crux before reaching the bolt, which you could have clipped from a secure stem rest stance if it were placed 12" down and to the right. There's a chain anchor on top well positioned for this and Rollercoaster. The climbing is great, roof is fun hands/thin hands, go do it.
I'm the one who replaced the pin with a bolt. Like Tom says - "It is as close to the original placement as possible" - otherwise the character of the climb would be altered. Glad you enjoyed the route.
The anchor on Rollercoaster was never intended for Rollerball but works fine for that purpose provided a directional is used (see route description).
Bolt placement is high but explaination accepted. I did have to make a few moves to touch it but not too difficult. Crack below can be protected with small TCU's or brassies.
Man, that's a lot of beta for a girl who just cleaned it. Next time...she's mine!
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 14, 2009 rating: 5.10b
One of my favorite Josh 10s. Thanks for the bolt explanation- the location has left me scratching my head several times. A BD #7 stopper fits in the flare in the crack OK and makes the moves to clipping the bolt psychologically more acceptable. Fly up the roof and feel like superman!
If you are not careful, the first crux WILL spit you off. As for the bolt, tenuous clip for me. I agree with A. Coward, there is a sequence to be found to send the roof. I went up and down and up and down and couldn't find a good enough jam to pull the roof before conking out. Great route.
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