Well-protected and varied throughout it's length, this route requires a variety of techniques to succeed - a balancy lieback down low leads to a steep, thin slab in the middle with a thuggy finish over a roof.
Great rock and continuous movement throughout combined with excellent protection make this well-worth doing or even attempting. Three stars out of five.
Location
Found just to the left of the classic Rollerball (5.10b) on the northwest corner of the Rollerball Formation.
I was out to climb Rollerball several years ago and noticed that the TR to the left had just been bolted, I thought cool, it looks like a fun 5.11, I started to climb and realized that this thing felt a lot harder than 5.11b, maybe I was just way off my game that day, but what do you think? Roof was hard too, lot of variety, but fun even though I was falling.
I found the slabby liebacking to be quite interesting, I was constantly a twisted mess of arms, legs and rope on this one. The finish is spectacular, this is a very nice route.
For such an awkward climb, this is a gem. Three very different cruxes including a showstopper mantle over the lip. Hard to rate a climb like this without climbing it several times 11b? 11c? Who cares, just call it .11 awkward and get on it. The route is very well protected and safe, especially by Jtree standards or can be easily top roped by leading rollerball (chain anchor on top).
Protected well enough to easily lead except for the fact it's not an easy lead. The "show stopper lip" stopped my show. Hard to believe the mantle could be that difficult using all those holds!
I may never reach the chains but its a fun ride when visiting the crag just the same. Easily set up TR in full sun makes for a nice destination in the cooler temps.
11 awkward, agreed. top section, once the move is deciphered, goes easy. bottom section (2-4 bolts) is the awkward part, not to mention technical, weird.
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