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5.8

   

FA: FKFA: Tony Bubb, Chris Parks, 12/28/03
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 104 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 28, 2003


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Description 

This route is on the South-most buttress of the West Face of the West Side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail Springs road. This is the South end of Watanobe Wall. This climb and others by it are best reached by going to the left from the south entrance to Steve Canyon (past Grand Theft Avacodo) or approached more easily still from the road parking areas to the West. Approaching from the inside of Steve Canyon is a waist of time and energy. Go out to the South, then around to the West.

This may not have been a FA, but as far as I can tell, it was the first documented lead. Until I head otherwise, I'll leave it at that. The route was named in memory of gastric issues the leader had at the time.

To find this route first spot a rather obvious roof, perhaps 6M off of the deck, then walk in (squirm in?) to the base on a worn footpath into a bit of a boulder-grotto. This climb the obvious OW to the right of Come N' Do Me. Large gear or no gear, for the most part, but the climbign is secure enough to run it out a little. Descend as down the rap on the E Face above Candellabra and walk SW back to the base.


Protection 

A rack of big gear (whatever big stuff you want) and maybe a few normal pieces.