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Steve Canyon
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Season Opener 

5.8 R

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 149 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 28, 2003


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Chrystal on "Season Opener" w/veedublvr belaying


Description 

This route is on the south-most buttress of the west face of the west side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail Springs road. This is the south end of Watanobe Wall. This climb and others by it are best reached by going to the left from the south entrance to Steve Canyon (past Grand Theft Avacodo) or approached more easily still from the road parking areas to the west. Approaching from the inside of Steve Canyon is a waste of time and energy. Go out to the south, then around to the west.

To find this route first spot a rather obvious roof, perhaps 6 meters off of the deck, then walk/squirm to the base on a worn footpath into a bit of a boulder-grotto. This climb is on the left of the exposed wall, in a steep, right-leaning crack system. Climb up and right in this crack to reach a horizontal, then continue up and right on the face above, which gets lower angled as you go. There is no pro up top, but the grade gets easier with the runout. Once you reach the top, go straight back to a cam or large-nut belay in a horizontal crack.

Descent is down the rap on the east face above Candelabra and walk back around to the base.


Protection 

A standard Light rack. The upper 1/3 of this line is face climbing without protection, but it is progressively less steep with increasing height and the danger is probably minimal despite the runout. Cams in a horizontal provide a TR or belay anchor back some distance from the route.



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By Drederek
Nov 8, 2004
rating: 5.8

A great route with an awkward, balancey section. We scrambled straight over to the east side and rapped off chains.

By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Good route. The triky part was at the top. Thank you blue tricam in the flared crack.

By Ryan Kelly
Apr 28, 2008
rating: 5.8

I disagree with the R rating. The initial face moves are done with a protectable crack at your feet. After that it’s 4th class tops.