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Steve Canyon
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The Orc 

5.10a

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 166 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 28, 2003


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Description 

This decent climb is on the south end of the east face of the west wall of Steve Canyon.Enter the Canyon from the south and look left to a "niche" with a nice flat belay trapped up against the rock on the left, perhaps 12M north (past) the hanging flake of 'Caldelabra.' Rising from this belay is a slightly flaring crack with surprisingly good locks and jams. As the crack reaches a bulge, start using a second crack to the left and eventually transistion to that one entirely. This route can sew up reasonably and does not reqire double ropes. Judicious use of slings should suffice. Belay from cracks above, then walk to the top of Candelabra to rap off.

This is one of the easier 10's at J-tree.


Protection 

A set of nuts, a set of tricams (optional) and a set of cams from 1"-3" Big gear can be used for the belay up top.



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By Sean
Dec 25, 2004
rating: 5.10a

follow the initial crack on the right instead of transfering to the left. harder, but why miss the fun part

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Apr 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a

I went right at the first bulge and found the climbing to be around 10a or so. The initial crack bit was a little trickier than it appeared from the ground, but still fun. Bring a cordalette for the anchor as the pro is way back. Chains to the climber's left.